Monday, February 14, 2011
Taste by Niche (Version 1.0) Closes Tonight
By Ian Froeb
on Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 2:30 PM
Taste by Niche
at its original location at 1831 Sidney Street, owner Gerard Craft
announced via Twitter today.
The restaurant will relocate to 4584 Laclede Avenue. The new Taste will be owned and operated by longtime Craft lieutenant Adam Altnether.
(Craft remains an investor.)
While I'm immensely excited to see what direction Altnether takes the new incarnation of Taste, I'm sad to see the original close. It was unique in St. Louis, both in concept and execution, and while I'm sure some thought I overstated the point by including it in my list of the ten most important restaurants to open in St. Louis in the previous decade
, I stand by that assessment.
This passage from my review of Taste
sums up what I felt made the restaurant special:
Of course, once you're seated in Taste's close quarters, at the bar or the communal table, you'll find it difficult not to order more than you'd planned. The dishes being set down in front of diners mere inches from you, the aromas wafting up from sauté pans, a gorgeous pink Burger ham being sliced tissue paper-thin, the running conversations between diners and cooks -- What's good? How did you make that? Where else have you eaten lately? -- it all generates an infectious enthusiasm for good food.
Tonight is the final service for