Thursday, April 7, 2011
#6: Beef Tenderloin with Foie Gras and a Port Wine Demi-Glace at Tony's
By Ian Froeb
on Thu, Apr 7, 2011 at 8:00 AM
Let's just pretend those two words are, "I'm delicious!"
An exquisitely tender slice of beef tenderloin needs few accompaniments. Maybe the only thing that can make it even more indulgent is a seared slice of foie gras. It seems to melt in your mouth as easily butter on a hot pan. As if this weren't enough, the port wine demi-glace, ladled over the dish tableside, adds yet another layer of rich flavor and a velvety texture.
This isn't something that you can -- or should -- eat very often. Yet like a visit to Tony's itself, it is a welcome counterweight to restaurant trends both good and bad, a reminder that certain elements of fine dining are timeless.
And to those who will inevitably object to my celebrating foie gras, I'll just let the dish speak for itself.
I have a nickname for this dish. It's profane and has no place in a discussion of a restaurant as classy as Tony's. Suffice to say, the nickname expresses in two succinct words what I imagine this dish would say, if it could, to every single trend-humping "composition" of lobster foam and tweezer-applied microgreens.