Wednesday, May 25, 2011

St. Louis Wing Co. Still Taking, Um, Wing

Posted By on Wed, May 25, 2011 at 3:00 PM

IAN FROEB
  • Ian Froeb
St. Louis Wing Co. (9816 Manchester Road, Rock Hill; 314-962-9464) opened two months ago with a menu featuring chicken wings in sauces both traditional and not (coconut curry, kalamata olive-feta and walnut-herb pesto among them). While I applaud the variation in flavors -- I liked a similar approach at O! Wing Plus in a recent review -- on a recent visit a basic flaw overwhelmed the kitchen's creativity.

The wings weren't cooked properly.

Pictured above are wings in two of the restaurant's flavors, five wings per flavor, part of a $9.99 combo meal including fries and a drink: coconut curry (right) and "spicy fresh jalapeño" (left).

The exterior of both sets of wings (presumably fried at the same time and then tossed in their respective sauces) lacked crispness. Indeed, the batter was on the soggy side, rendering the wings unpleasant to eat.

The sauces were just OK. Neither had much punch. The curry in coconut curry was muted -- more like an aftertaste than a flavor. The diced jalapeño, though a vivid green, had little heat, and the flavor was swamped by a buttery sweet sauce.

When I reported St. Louis Wing Co.'s opening, I mentioned that it was part of a cool trend of small places focusing on one thing. The flipside to that trend, of course, is that when you botch that one thing, it really stands out.

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