Tuesday, January 8, 2013

Review Preview: Fork & Stix

Posted By on Tue, Jan 8, 2013 at 1:09 PM

Sai oua, Northern Thai-style sausages, at Fork & Stix - JENNIFER SILVERBERG
  • Jennifer Silverberg
  • Sai oua, Northern Thai-style sausages, at Fork & Stix

This week I visit Fork & Stix (549 Rosedale Avenue; 314-863-5572), a tiny Thai restaurant unlike any other in town.

In the dark days before Twitter and Yelp, before food porn overtook porn porn as the Internet's raison d'être, you would have learned about a spot like Fork & Stix through word of mouth, if at all. This small, spare Thai restaurant is tucked away on a dead-end street off Delmar Boulevard at the eastern edge of the Loop. Its signage is minimal, effectively nonexistent: its name, on handwritten placards, in one window; a copy of the menu posted at the front door. The red glimmer of its tiny electronic OPEN sign is barely visible to passers-by -- and then only those who happen to be headed west on Delmar.

Today, of course, few spots escape the glare of the food media and food bloggers, not to mention the restaurant checklist brigade ("Been there, Instagrammed that"), and Fork & Stix is no exception. I dutifully reported its impending opening on Gut Check. I noted that its owners, the Wanna family, originally hail from the north of Thailand so -- get your checklist ready! -- unlike most Thai restaurants here or elsewhere, it would feature dishes from that region, which is to say you'd be as likely to find influences from the cuisines of Laos or Burma as of Bangkok.

Visit Gut Check tomorrow to read my review and see Jennifer Silverberg's slideshow.

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