This month has nothing to do with pies. There is no holiday in April (or May, even) when one is expected to eat pie. It's not National Pie Week or Celebrate Pie Day. It's not March 14 (National Pi Day) or January 23 (National Pie Day). So why are we writing about pie now?
A reader bugged us about it. And here at Gut Check, we like to keep our readers happy. We like pie as much as the next person, but we really weren't intending to write about it until we received repeated requests from a certain fan of RFT.
Don't say we never did anything for you.
4 Seasons Bakery (2012 Campus Drive, St. Charles; 314-288-9176) Even Julia Child, she who made it her mission in life to convince ordinary American home cooks that they, too, could produce classic French cuisine -- even Julia conceded that pie crust is problematic. It's a delicate balance: flaky yet flavorful; tender yet sturdy enough to stand up to the filling. You could spend your life trying to make the perfect pie crust. Or you could go to 4 Seasons Bakery in St. Charles and leave it in the flour-covered hands of Agi and Aaron Groff. Their crust has achieved the perfect medium. (We're told that the trick is adding some steam to the convection oven, a maneuver we are not prepared to try at home. Even if we had a convection oven.) The fillings, made from seasonal fruit, are good, too: sweet but not cloying. But it's the crust that gets us. Oh, pie! We love you so, even enough to cross the mighty Missouri.
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