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CLOSED The most spangled feather in St. Louis' fine-dining cap. Larry Forgione -- a celebrity chef before the Food Network rendered the term meaningless -- was one of the first restaurateurs to forge relationships directly with farmers and ranchers (and while he was at it, he invented the modern-day concept of the free-range chicken). Now the man whose name is synonymous with "American cuisine" brings St. Louis a unique and wonderful restaurant. Using only organic ingredients, Forgione's ever-changing menu plates up small masterpieces -- from fresh pappardelle with "Grandma Stella's" veal ragout to Missouri grass-fed lamb. The wine list is solid, the cheese course like nothing else in town. Yeah, it's a splurge -- but it's well worth it.