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The new location of a St. Louis institution: The original dates back to 1969, and its founder's roots go back even further. The new space is large, with a simple, rustic elegance and a casual ambiance. The extensive menu features the upscale Italian-American dishes much loved (sometimes to an unfathomable degree) in this area: grilled pork chops; pastas in thick sauces. Presentations can be impressive, including a caesar salad served as a tower of lettuce and a risotto served in a paper "cone" that looks like nothing so much as a giant piece of wrapped candy.