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A restaurant situated in a mall should, by most estimations, suck. So should a restaurant that's been around forever (which, in restaurant time, means more than ten years). Cardwell's at the Plaza defies both these pitfalls thanks to namesake chef/owner Bill Cardwell, who writes the menus and mans the stoves daily. Long-time favorites like flash-fried calamari with chili-lime mayo and the many pizzas from the wood-burning oven will remain until the end of time, while ever-changing daily specials of the best-sourced red meats and seafoods keep regulars coming back for more. Better still: Cardwell's at the Plaza is one of those restaurants that straddles the line between casual and fine dining with great aplomb. Show up in shorts or a suit, order a salad or a filet mignon, and you'll feel perfectly at ease.