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Many of chef Joe Hovland's entrées bear a happy resemblance to Thanksgiving plates overloaded with tidbits from eight different platters and casserole dishes. Hovland has an irrepressible enthusiasm for cooking and characterizes the restaurant's cuisine as "New American." He especially likes to prepare fish and shellfish, including outstanding lump-crab cakes. His five-onion soup is perhaps the best interpretation of French-onion soup in town.