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Top-quality meat and a bona fide big-city atmosphere, but you certainly pay for the privilege. The restaurant takes up most of the ground floor of what used to be the four-story, stainless-steel-clad American Zinc Building. Be sure to take note of the miracle of engineering -- more than 50 feet of unbroken space, made possible with something called Vierendeel trusses -- that creates an open, modern atmosphere, tempered by a giant original mural across one wall. Great steaks -- even better if you're on an expense account.