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Riverport's self-proclaimed "largest dining and entertainment extravaganza in Missouri" is like Chuck E. Cheese on growth hormones. On weekends, a tram service takes you from the vast parking lot to a structure so big they give you a map in the lobby. Inside, the place throbs like a hangover after a three-day debauch in Vegas. Dinner in the Grand Dining Room -- a posh enclave richly appointed with Tiffanyesque fixtures, dark wood and white linen -- exceeds expectations: The charbroiled sirloin is good and garlicky, and the barbecued pork ribs are wonderful.