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Dressel’s is a St. Louis institution, the Platonic ideal of a Welsh pub and one of the very best spots in town for a pint of good beer and cultured conversation. Which makes the trick that owner Ben Dressel and chef Michael Miller have pulled all the more impressive: Without robbing Dressel’s of any of its charms, they have elevated its food to among the best in town. The dishes are unfussy but elegant and deeply flavored. Recent standouts have included trout over a celery-root purée, chicken paired with a classic panzanella bread salad and deviled eggs flavored with ham hock and wasabi. Never fear: Dressel’s pub essentials (the burger, the chips and rarebit) are still available, and still as delicious as ever.