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Sure, you could order a taco at Garduño's. You could order a combination platter and enjoy tender, flavorful tamales and enchiladas that actually taste like chile peppers, not supermarket queso. But you could also order the mojarra dorada, a whole fish lightly breaded and deep-fried. The skin is perfectly crisp, the sweet flesh almost unfathomably moist. You're not actually sitting in a beachside cantina after the dayboat's come in -- but it's easy to pretend. Seriously: Order whatever you want. The menu promises "the very best of Mexican cuisine," and this tiny gem of a restaurant delivers.