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Giovanni's is the ultimate Hill experience: very intimate, very Italian and very expensive. You will encounter nothing here that is not impeccable. The squadron of deferential waiters is vigilant without being pesky. They'll bring you bow-tie pasta with smoked salmon in a feather-light Alfredo sauce or a first-rate rack of lamb garnished with vegetables. Dim lights, gilt-framed paintings and glittering table settings form an elegant backdrop for both the romantic third date and the expense-account business dinner.