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Brought to you by In Good Company, the local partnership behind Cafe Ventana, Sanctuaria and Diablitos Cantina, Hendricks BBQ enters the St. Charles market in a big — 17,000 square feet covering two levels — way. The sheer size of the place (slated to be a live-music venue and moonshine distillery, to boot) might be overwhelming, but chef Chris Lee and pitmaster Matt Vanderbeck make sure the focus is squarely on the food. Barbecue, smoked over apple and hickory wood, includes baby-back and St. Louis-cut spare ribs, beef brisket, pulled pork, turkey and sausage. If you like sauce, Hendricks’ “STL” is your best bet: complex, with just a little heat. Collard greens with bacon and grits with cheddar cheese are the can’t-miss sides. Consider trying the fried chicken, either by itself or smothered with gravy in an open-face sandwich.