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Apropos of Kelly English Steakhouse’s location inside the Harrah’s St. Louis casino megaplex, the name’s a bit of a bluff: Steaks might comprise the least compelling entries on the Memphis-based (Restaurant Iris) star chef’s menu. English was raised in Louisiana, and his best dishes hark back to his upbringing, including the “Creole Midnight Snack,” a knockout starter whose foundation is a simple slice of brioche, upon which are heaped succulently cooked shrimp in rémoulade...and a poached egg. Put your money on any of the seafood dishes here and you’ll come out a winner; the Parmesan-seared sea bass with cornbread dressing in particular pays off most handsomely. If you’re dead set on cow, the steaks are good, too.