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Robert Trevino, owner of the popular Amigos Cantina in Kirkwood, tries to shake up the usual Mexican-restaurant template with La Cantina. Here the dishes are meant to be shared, tapas-style, among the table. The best of these are the “Botanas Chiquitas,” or little snacks, like the “Chiles Dulces” (jalapeños roasted and then beer-battered , deep-fried and dusted with powdered sugar) and “Queso con Cerdo,” melted cheese with roasted pork and green chiles. Smaller versions of such staples as carnitas, tacos, burritos and quesadillas are also available.