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The back of room of Jim Fiala’s popular Central West End bistro is now a restaurant within a restaurant serving modestly priced (dishes are either $4, $7 or $10), cleverly conceived American fare. The “Fried Bologna,” for example, is housemade mortadella that’s fried and then drizzled with a balsamic sauce. “Surf and Turf” brings two scallops atop spaghetti squash. Though the décor (and the service) sometimes feel like an afterthought, the food alone is worth a trip through Liluma proper.