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In the evening, Mike Randolph’s Clayton restaurant transforms itself from the upscale breakfast spot Half & Half to one of the most ambitious entries on the St. Louis dining scene: Little Country Gentleman. Diners must choose a prix-fixe tasting menu: three courses, six courses or the “Grand Tasting Menu,” which can stretch over a dozen dishes (and several hours). Preparations feature creative and often memorably delicious takes on mainly local and seasonal produce (plus scallops, lobster and other non-local seafood). The wine list, overseen by Dan Parseliti, features many lesser-known Old World selections. Little Country Gentleman ain’t cheap, but it can be as exhilarating as any restaurant for miles around.