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CLOSED "Gastropub" is a silly term. Better to say Newstead Tower Public House serves pub "grub" the way it should be: simple, hearty and utterly delicious. Ingredients are topnotch (grass-fed beef in the hamburger and steak frites are a highlight), and attention is paid to small details, from the three house-made mayonnaises that accompany the excellent beer-battered onion rings to the Brie on a cheese plate, properly runny. Executive chef and owner Anthony Devoti has already set up shop in the Grove neighborhood with the well-regarded Five, but at this friendly spot it feels like he's come home.