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Chef Noboru Kidera works a kind of alchemy at his University City restaurant. The deft movements of his hands as he works at the bar, chatting with diners, demonstrate just how complex the making of sushi is. But what you notice about a piece of Kidera's nigiri sushi is its utter simplicity: the small mound of rice, a brush of wasabi, and then the fish, cut to the perfect thickness and impeccably fresh. The standard sushi selection is excellent - salmon, topped with a sliver of bracing raw onion, and mackerel especially so - but treat yourself to luscious toro or something unusual, like "The Traveler." Nobu's offers several crowd-pleasing rolls, as well as classic Japanese tempura, yakitori and noodle dishes.