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CLOSED - Everything modern-day, retrofitted restaurants may try to evoke Papa Fabarre's just is. Not just old-fashioned but downright old, this weekday lunchery inside the downtown Macy's is mostly a best-kept secret for the office crowd. The food -- short-order fare like burgers, sandwiches, French fries out of a bag, plus a couple offbeat things like French onion soup and liver -- can be decent, but the food isn't why you go. You go for the pressed-tin ceiling and the ceiling fans that work on an exposed belt-and-pulley system, for the red-velvet booths (designated "Tables for Ladies" by a hanging sign) offset by heavy green curtains, for the gilded cash register behind the bar that's no longer in use -- and because the service is attentive and warm to a fault. An absolute treasure.