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Helmed by Tom Zoog and Angela Del Pietro-Zoog, Portabella offers a menu that reflects decidedly modern influences. Sauces are derived from a range of geographic origins, and the kitchen has a deft touch with grilled vegetables. The room's modern and airy, with windows across the front and a classy, neutral décor that ensures a focus on the kitchen's, not the interior decorator's, artistry. Seasonal rotation of the menu illustrates an approach that's fresh in every sense of the word.