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This splashy loft-district restaurant is no stodgy cigars-and-Cabernet steakhouse. To be sure, the menu offers top-notch steaks - your choice of dry-aged USDA Prime or grass-fed Missouri cuts - but these can be paired, for example, with a butter blended with sea urchin. Appetizers include more contemporary flourishes like crisp sweetbreads and a "trio" of tenderloin carpaccio; those dragged here by carnivore friends can order the non-steak entrées with great confidence. Be sure to check out the dry-aging chamber to the left of the host's stand to see molecular gastronomy in action.