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In appearance and ambiance, Sassy JAC’s is the quintessential Soulard tavern. Yet chef Andrew Ladlie, who owns Sassy JAC’s with his wife, Jennifer, brings a serious pedigree to the party: His résumé includes time as the sous chef at west-county institution Annie Gunn’s. The fare is southern, unfussy and delicious. Standouts include a spicy blackened grouper sandwich, a “club” sandwich with chicken and andouille, excellent fried chicken in gravy (Wednesdays only) and topnotch garlic fries.