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The end of 2003 marked a passage that on the restaurant scene mattered far more than the start of another new year: Sidney Street switched hands. Husband and wife Kevin and Mina Nashan now handle the back and front of house, respectively, and co-own the handsome, Old World-style restaurant. Virtually all the signature dishes remain -- the sharp steak wasabi, the luscious filet béarnaise -- while new ones suggest that devout patrons have nothing to fear. The more things change, the more they stay the same.