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A spare strip-mall sushi joint, with the requisite neon Sapporo sign in the window and the small, glossy picture menu on each table. The draw - or gimmick - here is all-you-can-eat sushi: $11.95 at lunch and $15.95 at dinner scores you as much nigiri sushi, rolls and selected other dishes as you can handle. The only catch: You pay a surcharge for anything you can't finish. The nigiri sushi is straightforward, the rolls the standard assortment of California and Philadelphia, spider and rainbow. A few rolls and other dishes are available à la carte, but the all-you-can-eat option offers too much value to ignore.