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This ultra dive is the standard by which all other neighborhood bars should be judged. An elfin wooden sign attached to a gigantic Budweiser light box lets you know you're entering a gin joint as unassuming as its sign. Patriotic relics line the walls, and a collection of regulars are a fixture at the bar, trading jokes and jibes with the bartender while a jukebox cranks out soul and oldies that harken back to the time music was actually good. Another sign on the bar you should note: "If you don't like the way this bar is run, feel free to get the f*** out." 'Nuff said.