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Chef Steve Komorek excels at preparing the roughcast dishes of Italian cucina, embroidered with restrained New American flourishes. The restaurant's menu includes an appealing selection of hand-rolled Roman-style pizzas and other authentic regional Italian dishes, such as pastas from the south and risottos from the north. Trattoria Marcella's dessert menu is respectable but disconcertingly familiar - but the confections on the specials list are sublime. This modest restaurant is just the sort of clean, comfortable place where you can linger over dessert and coffee.