In theory, all-you-can-eat sushi is a terrifying concept, the death blow to a noble cuisine struck by the imperialist reach of gluttonous America. I imagine spider rolls as long as party subs, whole tuna loins carved tableside, wasabi paste sculpted into life-size swans, competitive-eating champ Joey "Jaws" Chestnut rolling up to a sushi bar and single-handedly depopulating the world's salmon stock. I remember the first sushi I ever ate, at a basement restaurant in Madrid, of all places, a piece of octopus so fresh that I thought I could feel its tentacle wrapping around my tongue as I... More >>>