I've been living the glamorous life of a restaurant critic, which is the same thing as the life of Riley, for exactly one year now. Not only have I eaten the free lunches my father always told me there's no such thing as, I've been able to disregard the sensibilities of thousands of readers twice a month (an enviable position, in spite of the occasional food poisoning). My ongoing mission has taken me to restaurants, cookshops and lunch counters of every description all over the city. Accompanied by my excellent posse of intrepid accomplices, I've supped on fabulous delicacies and sipped sumptuous wines. I've experienced poignant encounters with things like alligator, chicken feet, eels, cockles, sea urchins and -- the big kahuna of scary foods -- slingers. I've engendered the enmity of some restaurateurs, whereas others have erected shrines in my honor. I've even... More >>>
By Jennifer Silverberg
Grenache chef Justin Keimon (right), joined here by sous-chef Steve Scherrer, tints each dish with a sunny, azure-sky feeling unparalleled elsewhere in the city.