I've never been tempted to pocket hard rolls at the Old Country Buffet or filch Equal packets from Starbucks. But Richard Perry's strawberry-applesauce bread, with its moist crumb and musky clove scent, drove me over the edge. I lost my head -- devoured all I could and then began squirreling away the pieces in a doggie bag with my leftover shrimp stew. (Next time I'll stash a Tupperware container in my purse to make off with the pear butter that goes with the bread.) The restaurant's breadbasket also holds cracked wheat and Perry's signature boardinghouse white, which he used to bake during his days at the old Jefferson Avenue Boardinghouse. All evening, a server circulates about the room with the basket, like a 1940s cigarette girl, beckoning in a gentle lilt, "Cracked wheat?... More >>>
By Jennifer Silverberg
Richard Perry's new restaurant offers a prix-fixe menu most remarkable for its consistency.