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Subject: Food and Cooking
RFT readers weigh in on the raw-food diet and take Dennis Brown to task over his stand on the Kiel Opera House
September 16, 2009Simple Melody: It's not the same song and dance at Seasons St. Louis
September 16, 2009Java Enabled's Best of St. Louis Coffee, Part 1
With the release on October 1 of the Riverfront Times Best of St. Louis 2009, I decided this is a great time to set the stage with Java Enabled's own Best of St. Louis Coffee. I've decided to break up my Best Of into two umbrella categories: Cafés and Coffee. In this post, I'll list my picks for the best in local cafés. Next week, I'll review my selections for St. Louis coffee, from roasts to drinks.I wanted to lead off with cafés since their attraction is related to coffee but distinct from
September 16, 2009FoodWire: New Restaurant with Familiar Name on Laclede's Landing
Splashy ad in this week's dead-tree RFT for a new restaurant and bar at 800 North 3rd Street on Laclede's Landing: King Louie's Courtyard Bar & Pizzeria. Yeah, they went there, taking the name of the late, lamented restaurant at 3800 Chouteau Avenue.At first, I was all, "Oh, no, they didn't!" But, upon reflection, I'm suprised it hadn't happened already. King Louie's is a pretty good name.At any rate, the new King Louie's Courtyard Bar & Pizzeria advertises pizza by the slice till 2 a.m.
September 16, 2009Farmers' Market Share: Peach Pound Cake and Apple Honeycake
Alissa NelsonWhile training for my first 100-mile bike ride last spring, I developed a terrible habit. Although I stocked my saddlebag with the finest in sports goos and my back pocket with peanut butter-and-banana sandwiches, I couldn't help but plan the huge meal I would eat as soon as I got home. When you have twenty miles left in a bike ride, then a drive from the exurbs back to South City, this is probably not the most motivational way to look at your day.On the upside, I developed a spe
September 16, 2009Gyro Scoop: Meaty Middle Eastern pleasures abound on South Grand
September 23, 2009A Table for How Many? at the Shaved Duck
The Shaved Duck2900 Virginia Avenue314-776-1407; websiteI'm Late for a Very Important DateMy husband and I were late to Dinner Club. We knew that we were dealing with adults, but still we worried about the other members fending for themselves. Would chaos ensue? Sadly -- for our egos -- we weren't needed. We arrived to find our group at a big table happily chatting away and sipping their drinks. The Shaved Duck had prepared a table for us despite its policy of not taking reservations. Do
October 1, 2009Gourmet Magazine to Shutter [Updated]
The New York Times reports that magazine publisher Condé Nast will shutter Gourmet magazine after almost 70 years:The magazine has suffered a severe decline in ad pages, but the cut still comes as a shock. There was speculation that Condé Nast would close one of its food titles -- Gourmet or Bon Appétit -- but most bets were on the latter. Gourmet has a richer history than Bon Appétit, and its editor Ruth Reichl is powerful in the food world.No word yet on whether Bon Appétit will subsum
October 5, 2009FoodWire: Casino Queen Opens Sevens
Kelly Martin, Wikimedia CommonsCasino Queen -- all together now: Home of the Loosest Slots! -- has opened Sevens, a restaurant, sports bar and entertainment venue. From the press release:SEVENS' mouth-watering dining menu will satisfy taste buds with gourmet food specialties complete with a full bar. The budget-friendly menu consists of delectable appetizers, salads, soups, pizza and sandwiches. Guests will enjoy items from "SEVENS Sandwich Club" such as the "The Hill", a seven-inch long It
October 5, 2009The Novice Foodie: Monarch, Fit for a Queen (and Her Hungover Husband)
The first time my husband and I ate at Monarch was for my 29th birthday. This was not so long ago, when our visits to nicer restaurants were reserved for a birthday or our anniversary. I'd chosen Monarch because we'd never been there and also because I'd loved chef Josh Galliano's food when he was at An American Place. To say I was looking forward to our Saturday reservations would be an understatement.The night before, my husband and I had thrown our annual backyard trivia party. It was a rough
October 6, 2009Chez Leon gives way to a new Niche
October 7, 2009Absence Makes the Heart Grow Fond
October 7, 2009A Deleted Scene from This Week's Review of Fond, or A Storm for Every Port
David Shankbone, Wikimedia CommonsShe looked like Edie Falco -- but she wasn't smiling.In my otherwise very positive review of Fond, I note a couple of service issues, including a dessert wine pairing promised on the chef's tasting menu that never arrived. This scene, written for the first draft of my review and then discarded, provides one possible explanation for the wine's absence."Oh, God, he just ordered another glass.""That's his third, right?""Fourth. And their entrées still haven't a
October 7, 2009Is AB-InBev Trying to Play Down the Belgian Roots of Bud Light Golden Wheat?
anheuser-busch.comOn Monday, Anheuser-Busch-InBev announced the nationwide release of Bud Light Golden Wheat, the latest spin-off of the company's most popular brand (Chelada, anyone?) and another attempt by the world's largest brewer to break into the micro-brew market and quench the nation's ever-increasing thirst for craft beers.Described in the press release as "an unfiltered wheat brewed with citrus, a hint of coriander and the superior drinkability of Bud Light" the beer is essentially
October 7, 2009Java Enabled's Postcard from Costa Rica: Typical Coffee
At first glance it looks like a baby's sock hanging from a mini oil derrick, slowly dripping the black liquid into the cup below. OK, maybe it's closer to a Chemex than I'm making it sound, but the "typical" -- or "tipico," as restaurant menus across the country will remind you -- percolador style of coffee preparation in Costa Rica is certainly unique.
October 7, 2009Farmers' Market Share: Winter Squash Muffins
Alissa NelsonLife isn't all sunshine and rainbows in this food blogger's kitchen. I was seriously tempted to just link to the New York Times recipe for Ratatouille Pot Pie and call it a day. (It was really excellent, by the way.) Then I made a meal that resulted in the exclamation, "What the fuck, persimmons?" Then I had to send my laptop for repairs. Believe it or not, I still haven't seen Julie and Julia, so I have no idea how this lives up. But she just had to cook, not think stuff up, so
October 7, 2009Chef's Choice: Vito Racanelli, Onesto Pizza and Trattoria
Robin WheelerVito Racanelli of Onesto Pizza & TrattoriaVito Racanelli, owner and chef of Onesto Pizza and Trattoria (website), comes by his food roots honestly. Born in New York City to parents from Bari and Calabria, he moved with his family to St. Louis when he was thirteen years old.The Racanellis brought a lot of Old World ways with them: "I didn't have peanut butter and jelly and things like that. Breakfast at my house was a couple of raw egg yolks beat with sugar. More of a Europea
October 8, 2009Chef's Choice Recipes: Vito Racanelli's Calabrese Chicken and Rice
Robin WheelerVito Racanelli of Onesto Pizza and TrattoriaAs I wrote in my profile of Vito Racanelli, the chef's food passion lies in the home cooking of his 71-year-old mother, who still cans her own tomatoes every summer. Don't skimp on the fresh flat-leaf parsley. The herb's the predominant seasoning in the Calabria region of Italy, where Racanelli's mother is from. If tomatoes aren't in season, opt for a high-quality canned version, like San Remo.
October 8, 2009Review Preview: Taste by Niche
Jennifer SilverbergThe crew, starting in front, going clockwise: Gerard Craft, chef de cuisine Adam Altnether, mixologist Ted Kilgore, cook Nick Blue, pastry chef Matthew Rice and sous chef James Peisker.This week I visit Taste by Niche, the new offering from acclaimed chef Gerard Craft. Of course, once you're seated in Taste's close quarters, at the bar or the communal table, you'll find it difficult not to order more than you'd planned. The dishes being set down in front of diners mere inch
October 12, 2009FoodWire: The Return of Balaban's
Well, this one caught me by surprise: Central West End institution Balaban's is being reborn in (wait for it...) Chesterfield as (wait, again, for it) Balaban's Wine Cellar & Tapas Bar. The new Balaban's will be located at 1772 Clarkson Road, in a Dierberg's shopping center. The Balaban's website predicts a November opening. Steve McIntyre, who bought the original Balaban's from Herbie Balaban in 1986 and owned it for most of the next twenty years before selling to Brendan Marsden and Harlee
October 12, 2009Sneak with a Thousand Faces
I was raised a Christian sneak, which may have repercussions in my evangelical fervor for spreading the gospel of eating what you want, when you want. One thing that always disappointed me about the Bible as child, though, was that Moses and David and Jesus were hard to understand. I liked Jesus best because he told the best stories -- and, honestly, my parents should have known what I was to become when I was so very interested in turning water into wine or producing loaves and fishes from rar
October 12, 2009Accounting for Taste: Niche gets a new next-door neighbor — think of it as mini-Niche
October 14, 2009Java Enabled: Lo Mejor de Monserrate
Lo Mejor de Monserrate. It means, "the best of Monserrate." This perhaps presumptuous claim is the name of a tiny cooperative nestled high in the mountains of Colombia's Huila coffee region. Last month Tyler Zimmer and Mike Marquard of Kaldi's Coffee Roasting Company visited Monserrate. This was a rare opportunity for a U.S. roasting company to get the chance to visit one of the farms where its coffee originates, so I was curious to hear about the trip. After returning from my own visit to Latin
October 14, 2009FoodWire: More on New Balaban's
As I reported on Monday, Steve McIntyre, who owned Balaban's in the Central West End for a good portion of its 36-year run, is opening Balaban's Wine Cellar & Tapas Bar this November at 1772 Clarkson Road in Chesterfield.Today I received the official press release announcing the opening, and it suggests that retail wine sales will play a large part in the new venture. A couple of choice bits after the jump...
October 14, 2009A Table for How Many? at Taqueria La Monarca
Taqueria La Monarca8531 Olive Blvd. 314-995-7018It's your birthday, and you and your friends are all heading out to that Mexican joint near Olive and Interstate 170. You chose it because it's big (you would have no problem getting a seat if everyone else in town didn't have the same idea), your friends are all familiar with the menu (there are five other area locations), and the staff will sing to you and send you home drunk on margaritas (¡Olé!).
October 15, 2009Chef's Choice: Jeffrey Constance, Hanley's Grille and Tap
Robin WheelerChef Jeffrey Constance of Hanley's Grille and TapWhat do you mean, you haven't heard of Hanley's Grille and Tap? Chef Jeff Constance took over the former J.Buck's locations at St. Clair Square in Fairview Heights, Illinois, and West County Center in Des Peres a few months ago. Though brand new, Hanely's is already providing Euro-inspired comfort food and excellent service like an old pro. For the 42-year-old Belleville, Illinois, native, it's the culmination of many years in the
October 15, 2009Chef's Choice Recipes: Jeffrey Constance's Chèvre-Stuffed Meatloaf
Robin WheelerDuring my visit with Jeffrey Constance of Hanley Grille and Tap, he prepared a meatloaf unlike any mama's meatloaf. With influences from both his classic French and Italian background, this dish has all the surprising, complex flavors of upscale cuisine without sacrificing the comforts of home cooking.
October 15, 2009FoodWire: Owner Steve McIntyre on the New Balaban's
As I reported last week, Central West End institution Balaban's is making a comeback of sorts as Balaban's Wine Cellar & Tapas Bar at 1772 Clarkson Road in Chesterfield. Steve McIntyre, who owned Balaban's for much of the twenty-year period between 1986 and 2006, is behind the new location, which is slated to open in November. (The original Balaban's location at 405 North Euclid Avenue is now Herbie's Vintage 72.) Last Friday, I had the chance to speak with McIntyre about the new Balaban's.
October 19, 2009The Noble Writ: Wine Shopping from Afar
A point comes in many wine lovers' lives when they are unable to find a bottle they really want in their local wine shops. It might be a wine from the birth year of a special person, a bottle enjoyed while traveling or just something about which they've read that simply captivates their imagination.The simple fact about wine distribution is that far from everything is available in any particular market. While we St. Louisans are relatively well placed in a large metropolitan area spanning two st
October 20, 2009The Sneak: Sneako Maki
Dara StricklandThe virtues of sushi as a food are significant, but its value to a sneak may be as elusive as a flying bird's reflection on a rippling pond. I've crafted these handy tables for you to compare the virtues of eating sushi in a restaurant to sneaking it into a movie theater.
October 20, 2009Re-Enter Balaban's — and Exit Ozzie's
October 21, 2009The Novice Foodie: Bacon, Shakin' and Bikin'
Kelli Best-OliverWhen I signed up for my friend's annual bike ride/pub crawl around St. Louis, the infamous Tour de Moose, I was worried more about how my body would hold up than what I would be drinking and eating along the route. After my retirement from collegiate sports, my only regular exercise is playing kickball in Tower Grove Park and walking my dog.However, my friend Andrew was quick to remind me that breakfast is the most important meal of the day, especially when you plan on drink
October 20, 2009Review Slideshow: Taqueria la Monarca, Amigo Joe's and Latitude 26°
Jennifer SilverbergMy review of three new Mexican and Tex-Mex restaurants -- Taqueria la Monarca in University City, Amigo Joe's on Southwest Avenue and Latitude 26° in Dogtown -- is now available online. In this week's Back of the House slideshow, Jennifer Silverberg takes you into the kitchen of Taqueria la Monarca, where you can see such delicious dishes as the tamales (pictured right) being made.
October 21, 2009FoodWire: Serious Eats Visits Thai Pizza Co.
Well-respected national food blog Serious Eats today pays a visit to Thai Pizza Co. (608 Eastgate Avenue; website). In the article for Serious Eats' pizza blog Slice, Chicago-based Serious Eats contributor Daniel Zemans stops by the Delmar Loop restaurant to test the "universality of pizza." Zemans doesn't think that Thai Pizza Co. is up to snuff:There really isn't much worth reporting on the actual pizza. There are twelve different options for toppings and two different crusts, one thin and one
October 21, 2009Farmers' Market Share: Autumn Latkes
Alissa NelsonLast week, while browsing the wares at Local Harvest Grocery, I encountered the biggest beets I'd ever seen. They were like cow hearts. I considered staging the Harrison Ford sacrifice scene from Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom, just for dramatic effect. Then I saw a sweet potato that was the size of a head, which would have served the role of monkey-head soup tureen. How can you pass up produce like that?According to proprietor Maddie Earnest, these monstrous root vegetabl
October 21, 2009Chef's Choice: Josh Galliano, Monarch
Robin WheelerJosh Galliano, executive chef at MonarchIn the summer of 2005, Monarch executive chef Josh Galliano was working at New York's Restaurant Daniel when his girlfriend, Audra, paid him a visit. She wasn't happy with what she saw."She said, 'Okay, A, you look anorexic. You're working too much and not eating anything. B, you're broke. I can't believe you're paying for this apartment. C, your subletter just bailed on you.' August 17th, she said to pack my bags, we were going back. Got b
October 22, 2009Chef's Choice Recipes: Josh Galliano's Butternut Squash Ravioli with Chinese Bacon
Robin WheelerMonarch executive chef Josh GallianoWhile I interviewed Monarch executive chef Josh Galliano, he prepared butternut squash ravioli in a lemon-sage beurre blanc with Chinese bacon. After the jump, the recipe for this dish -- and for the fresh pasta you need to make it.
October 22, 2009FoodWire: Beechwood Bistro Closed?
Looks like Union Station might have claimed another one: Beechwood Bistro by Sage, the offshoot of Soulard's Sage, appears to be closed. The restaurant was closed during its usual operating hours this afternoon, and the phone number (314-621-1161) has been disconnected. Beechwood Bistro opened in early March of this year, featuring many of the same dishes as Sage, which debuted in the summer of 2007.
October 27, 2009Chile Reception: Ian goes for the burn with Mayuri's Indian cuisine
October 28, 2009Review Slideshow: Mayuri
Jennifer SilverbergMy review of the Indian restaurant Mayuri is now available online. Mayuri is located at 12513 Olive Boulevard in Creve Coeur, in the space previously occupied by the Indian restaurant Ruchi. For more information, call 314-576-7272 or visit the restaurant's website. In this week's Back of the House slideshow, Jennifer Silverberg shows off the restaurant's lunch buffet and takes you into the kitchen.
October 28, 2009Drink of the Week: Pot for Two, London Tea Room Blend, The London Tea Room
My companion is not a "tea room" kind of guy. In fact, he winced a little when I suggested the London Tea Room for lunch. Still, he plays along, even when I propose ordering tea for two. Knowing that black coffee is more his style, I resist the frou-frou flavored options in favor of the London Tea Room Blend, an austere and balanced black tea blend. Upon ordering a half-sandwich and soup combo, in which bacon is featured both on the sandwich and in the soup, he seems a little more at ease.In
October 28, 2009Java Enabled Previews the Midwest Regional Barista Competition
"It's like Iron Chef with baristas making coffee drinks."That's how Josh Ferguson, owner of Kaldi's Coffee Roasting Company, describes the Midwest Regional Barista Competition. The competition gathers the best baristas from Iowa, Kansas, Minnesota, Missouri, Nebraska, North Dakota and South Dakota to compete and share the latest in coffee."It brings people together to showcase their talents and come together with a community who want to raise the level of specialty coffee," Ferguson says.The
October 28, 2009A Table for How Many? at Yummies Restaurant
Yummies Restaurant3149 Shenandoah Avenue314-226-9800The Draw of MeatloafWe had more people attend our Dinner Club meeting at Yummies Restaurant than we've had in months. It could be the placement of the moon -- or it could be meatloaf. You wouldn't think that something as simple as meatloaf would have such a draw, but in a group where many of us live far from the comforts of Mom's kitchen, the appeal of simple home cooking can be huge.Yummies excels at bringing the feel of family dining to a
October 29, 2009Chef's Choice Recipes: Vince Valenza's Muffuletta Sandwich
Robin WheelerVince Valenza of Blues City Deli shows off his muffuletta sandwich.The signature item on the menu at Blues City Deli, this giant sandwich is named for the round Italian bread used since New Orleans' Central Grocery invented the sandwich in 1908."Back in the mid-80s we didn't know what a muffuletta was," Blues City Deli owner Vince Valenza told me when I interviewed him for today's profile. "In the downtown St. Louis Italian neighborhood -- Sicilians -- we did muffulettas, but we
October 29, 2009Gut Check: Kaldi's cops coffee kudos
November 4, 2009(City)Garden Spot: Downtown's new cultural gem gets a restaurant to match
November 4, 2009List of Hot Cocktail Trends Is a Good Excuse to Post This Video
So Bombay Sapphire has surveyed "1,000 bartenders from 40 states" (according to the press release it sent out) to determine the top ten "hottest trends in mixology."The list includes both the expected (variations on classic cocktails) and, well, the unexpected -- such as hot trend #4. What is hot trend #4? Find out the answer (and the rest of the top ten) after the jump. But first, this clip to give you a clue...
November 3, 2009Pleasures of the Flesh
November 4, 2009Farmers' Market Share: Braise Those Greens!
User "Quadell," Wikimedia CommonsSave those greens, beet fans!Despite riding my bike in shorts on Monday -- shorts! in November! -- there is something about the trees losing their leaves and three straight weeks of rain that begs for hoodies and comfort food.Since I care about your colon, I'm not going to pass along a bunch of bacon recipes today. However, I will pass along that Greenwood Farms bacon is delightful, and I ate a bunch of it this week on Companion Bavarian Pretzels, the last of
November 4, 2009Java Enabled: Fifteen Shots Later, Part 1
When I received an e-mail a few weeks ago inviting me to sit as one of the sensory judges at the 2009-2010 Midwest Regional Barista Competition, I jumped at the opportunity. At my most delusional, it sounded like "celebrity judge" -- at the very least, it sounded like a great time. Last weekend, I trained for my judging certification and then sat as a sensory judge for the first round of the competition on Saturday. Fifteen shots later, I attended the final on Sunday. Over the next three week
November 5, 2009
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