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Restaurants Reviews (536 Reviews)

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Blessed Brisket: Smoking Joe's Bar-Be-Que is making downtown a little more savory Blessed Brisket: Smoking Joe's Bar-Be-Que is making downtown a little more savory
The only good thing about being from a place without an ironclad barbecue tradition to call its own — two places, in my case: St. Louis is... More>>
By Ian Froeb
Published: July 01, 2009
Feet First: Midland Wok brings the essence of pork to Overland Feet First: Midland Wok brings the essence of pork to Overland
At the Vietnamese restaurant Midland Wok, the #26 soup — banh canh gio heo — is described in English as "big clear noodles and pork."... More>>
By Ian Froeb
Published: June 24, 2009
Sea Change: Miso on Meramec's new sushi chef is the best thing since sliced fish Sea Change: Miso on Meramec's new sushi chef is the best thing since sliced fish
Our order of salmon sashimi at Miso on Meramec came with the usual lump of wasabi paste stuck to one corner of its platter. You know it:... More>>
By Ian Froeb
Published: June 17, 2009
Patties Take the Cake: Five Guys brings burger glory to Town & Country Patties Take the Cake: Five Guys brings burger glory to Town & Country
Friday evening I cooked steak. That should have sated my carnivorous desires for at least 24 hours, but I woke Saturday morning craving a burger.... More>>
By Ian Froeb
Published: June 10, 2009
Sole Proprietors: At long last, St. Louis gets a McCormick & Schmick's. Was it worth the wait? Sole Proprietors: At long last, St. Louis gets a McCormick & Schmick's. Was it worth the wait?
McCormick & Schmick's Seafood Restaurant announced its arrival in St. Louis in February by installing a giant inflatable crab atop the parking... More>>
By Ian Froeb
Published: June 03, 2009
Life Is a Carnaval: Côco Louco Brasil brings churrasco and cachaça to the Central West End Life Is a Carnaval: Côco Louco Brasil brings churrasco and cachaça to the Central West End
If you dine at Côco Louco Brasil, beware the teapot. Your server may bring this to your table at the end of your meal, along with dainty... More>>
By Ian Froeb
Published: May 27, 2009
Winslow's Home Run: U. City gets a postmodern grocery store with a kickass kitchen, food writer rejoices Winslow's Home Run: U. City gets a postmodern grocery store with a kickass kitchen, food writer rejoices
I wanted the beef brisket, but the kitchen was out of brisket. How about the chicken- bacon club? Nope — the chicken-bacon club had sold... More>>
By Ian Froeb
Published: May 20, 2009
Cabo Wobble: Strapping on the feedbag Red Rocker-style at Harrah's Cabo Wobble: Strapping on the feedbag Red Rocker-style at Harrah's
There are restaurants I review because everyone is talking about them, and there are restaurants I review because almost no one has heard of... More>>
By Ian Froeb
Published: May 13, 2009
Caribbean Sí: A Puerto Rican restaurant sprouts on South Grand Caribbean Sí: A Puerto Rican restaurant sprouts on South Grand
Any restaurant critic worth his weight in rendered duck fat keeps two lists in his head. One identifies people with reason to wish him harm. I... More>>
By Ian Froeb
Published: May 06, 2009
Still Dressel's After All These Beers: For three decades and counting, this Central West End stalwart is good for what ales you Still Dressel's After All These Beers: For three decades and counting, this Central West End stalwart is good for what ales you
How did I end up at Dressel's, chowing down on housemade potato chips and rarebit for the who-knows-how-manyth time? Blame the headless babe. A... More>>
By Ian Froeb
Published: April 29, 2009
Power Steering: Long a fixture across the river, Andria's Steakhouse opts for westward expansion Power Steering: Long a fixture across the river, Andria's Steakhouse opts for westward expansion
For the obsessive collector of restaurant menus, these are boom times. In larger cities — New York, Chicago, LA — independent... More>>
By Ian Froeb
Published: April 22, 2009
Quack Quack: The Shaved Duck reinvented — and hotter than before Quack Quack: The Shaved Duck reinvented — and hotter than before
Jalapeños are for amateurs. Habaneros are so five years ago. The current It girl among the chile cognoscenti is the bhut jolokia (also... More>>
By Ian Froeb
Published: April 15, 2009
Dining Under the Influence: Downtown sure could use a standout Mexican restaurant. Is El Borracho it? Dining Under the Influence: Downtown sure could use a standout Mexican restaurant. Is El Borracho it?
A colleague asked me to describe El Borracho, the four-month-old, self-styled "taqueria y cantina" at the intersection of Locust and North 20th... More>>
By Ian Froeb
Published: April 08, 2009
Plant Power: Local Harvest Café embodies a welcome new concept in sustainable chowing-down Plant Power: Local Harvest Café embodies a welcome new concept in sustainable chowing-down
The national conversation on food has reached a fascinating — and maybe crucial — point. As a recent New York Times article noted,... More>>
By Ian Froeb
Published: April 01, 2009
Rolls by Any Other Name: In Chesterfield, Momoyama's picks up where Yoshi's Sushi left off Rolls by Any Other Name: In Chesterfield, Momoyama's picks up where Yoshi's Sushi left off
I write this week's column having just traded in — for about enough cash to buy one of those "melty" quesadilla-type things Taco Bell... More>>
By Ian Froeb
Published: March 25, 2009
East Meets West: With Thai Sawadee, Chesterfield has a winner East Meets West: With Thai Sawadee, Chesterfield has a winner
A man sitting on the other side of the dining room stood and, without hesitation, approached our table. "I'm sorry," he said. "I just have to see... More>>
By Ian Froeb
Published: March 18, 2009
Tap City: How to approach Mattingly Brewing Company? Go for the beer. Stay for the beer. Tap City: How to approach Mattingly Brewing Company? Go for the beer. Stay for the beer.
When I was a grad student in Iowa City, my classmates and I often hung out after our weekly writing workshop at this bar called Martinis. Six... More>>
By Ian Froeb
Published: March 11, 2009
Blood, Sweet (Potatoes) and Beers: The Bleeding Deacon elevates Blood, Sweet (Potatoes) and Beers: The Bleeding Deacon elevates "bar food" to new heights and gives south city a pub transfusion
Damn. My cell phone was at home, charging. I didn't need to make a call, didn't need to take a photo. I needed light, and barring an unexpected... More>>
By Ian Froeb
Published: March 04, 2009
Taco the Town: Taqueria el Jalapeño scores another point for north county in the geographical battle for local Mexican restaurant supremacy Taco the Town: Taqueria el Jalapeño scores another point for north county in the geographical battle for local Mexican restaurant supremacy
It won't surprise regular readers of this column to learn that if I were stranded on a desert island, I'd want the only restaurant there to be a... More>>
By Ian Froeb
Published: February 25, 2009
Crust Achin': Ian ventures forth in search of the good pizza and finds the Good Pie Crust Achin': Ian ventures forth in search of the good pizza and finds the Good Pie
One day, when I'm an old, retired restaurant critic, as fat as a zeppelin and hobbled by gout, I'll throw the grandkids into the hovercar and... More>>
By Ian Froeb
Published: February 18, 2009
The Year of the Herb: Balaban's re-rebirth as Herbie's Vintage 72 makes the Central West End whole again The Year of the Herb: Balaban's re-rebirth as Herbie's Vintage 72 makes the Central West End whole again
No doubt there are cursed restaurant spaces, locations that — no matter how ingenious the concept, no matter how talented the chef —... More>>
By Ian Froeb
Published: February 11, 2009
Go Hungry: The newest venture from the Del Pietro family, Sugo's Spaghetteria piles it on Go Hungry: The newest venture from the Del Pietro family, Sugo's Spaghetteria piles it on
You know who's enjoying this recession? Besides repo guys and Paul Krugman's booking agent? McDonald's. Profits are up as cash-strapped folks opt... More>>
By Ian Froeb
Published: February 04, 2009
Delta Force: The Wedge is a tavern, through and through — but the pizzas take bar food to another level Delta Force: The Wedge is a tavern, through and through — but the pizzas take bar food to another level
A list of all the awful foods I've eaten while smashed could fill twice the space I'm allotted here. Sometimes the damage is self-inflicted.... More>>
By Ian Froeb
Published: January 28, 2009
Josh Almighty: New chef Josh Galliano takes Monarch to regal heights Josh Almighty: New chef Josh Galliano takes Monarch to regal heights
Monarch on a weekday evening. Miles Davis on the stereo. A low boil of crosstalk from the few occupied tables. My wife lovely as ever in a black... More>>
By Ian Froeb
Published: January 21, 2009
A Bunny Thing Happened on the Way to the Fox: It's game on at Wm. Shakespeare's Gastropub in Grand Center A Bunny Thing Happened on the Way to the Fox: It's game on at Wm. Shakespeare's Gastropub in Grand Center
The week after next, China will welcome the year of the ox. In St. Louis, I'm ready to declare 2009 the year of the rabbit. This January alone... More>>
By Ian Froeb
Published: January 14, 2009
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