Restaurant Reviews

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Rustic Never Sleeps Rustic Never Sleeps
Forget toasted ravioli: Trattoria Marcella purveys a different kind of Italian fare
, October 03, 2001
Members of the eaterati insist that there are appetizer restaurants and there are entrée restaurants. Trattoria Marcella is a specials... More >>
Raw Power Raw Power
When the service catches up to the food, Fuji Sushi will be on the road to delivering a good meal
, September 19, 2001
Just as we walked through the door of Fuji, a new Japanese restaurant on Clarkson Road in West County, another party was leaving, and they were... More >>
Dead End Dead End
If you're headed to the Central West End for dinner, read this before choosing C. Whittaker's
, September 12, 2001
Within five minutes of arriving at C. Whittaker's, we were scrambling to secure a last-minute reservation at another restaurant. Why the... More >>
Hello, Delhi Hello, Delhi
St. Louis adds to its trove of Indian-restaurant riches
, September 05, 2001
I'm not sure exactly when it happened, but sometime in the recent past, Indian food made the leap from rare to almost commonplace in the St.... More >>
Beauty Triumphs Beauty Triumphs
You can get more than makeup at Neiman Marcus
, August 29, 2001
Once the eager-beaver waitstaff learns to back off, that will be a nearly perfect dining venue," my friend concluded in an e-mail message after... More >>
O Solomillo! O Solomillo!
One taste of Modesto's offerings, and you'll be the Spanish prisoner
, August 22, 2001
As they say about dining out in Spain, better late than never.The tapas craze swept the rest of the country more than a decade ago, with places... More >>
Sky's the Limit Sky's the Limit
Tim Mallett's Big Sky Cafe offers a spread of great food
, August 15, 2001
It's almost invariably fun to visit one of Tim Mallett's restaurants because, as much as any restaurateur in town, Tim Mallett "gets it." He gets... More >>
Dog Days Dog Days
In the mood for something a bit out of the ordinary in West County? Taqueria Chihuahua offers authentic Mexican fare in generous and inexpensive servings.
, August 08, 2001
The food stall or diner-like Mexican restaurant called a taqueria is relatively rare in these parts. The main concentration recently has been... More >>
Safe Landing Safe Landing
Diners who value consistency and approachability over novelty and depth of flavor will enjoy the Seven Gables Inn
, August 01, 2001
It's a reviewer's job to help readers decide how to spend their leisure time and money. A classical-music critic might recommend attending a... More >>
Crossing to Safety Crossing to Safety
You're in no danger of getting a bad meal at The Crossing, one of the Midwest's finest restaurants
, July 25, 2001
Ever since an astonishing initial visit some three years ago, one of my constant recommendations for people in search of new, fabulous restaurant... More >>
Brimful of Rajas Brimful of Rajas
Despite the humble beginnings of its setting, Tandoori Hut is turning out flavorful, elegant meals
, July 18, 2001
Indian food has the same deliciously corrupting qualities as sex: The more you get, the more you want. Anecdotal evidence suggests that... More >>
Kibbi Kibbitzing Kibbi Kibbitzing
At St. Raymond's Wednesday lunches, you can satisfy your jones for Middle Eastern fare and see everyone who's anyone
, July 11, 2001
At my first glimpse of the parking lot, I knew we might be in trouble.Here it was, just 11:20 a.m. We'd left our downtown office jobs early on... More >>
American Beauty American Beauty
Cardwell's in Clayton delights diners with whimsical presentations
, July 04, 2001
The entrées at Cardwell's in Clayton remind us of Thanksgiving plates laden with tidbits from eight different platters, crocks and casserole... More >>
OK by You OK by You
Visiting the Crescent City by way of Florissant
, June 27, 2001
My direct experience with New Orleans cooking comes in four major flavors. At the high end, it's places such as Bayona and The Grill at the... More >>
Goody Works Goody Works
Though it bites off a bit more than it can chew, the Goody Goody Diner serves up a mean breakfast
, June 20, 2001
As my foodcentric comrade and I shambled out of the Goody Goody Diner after having packed away an embarrassingly large breakfast, I asked him... More >>
Royal Treatment Royal Treatment
Matt McGuire and Kirk Warner serve up meals fit for a king
, June 13, 2001
If you build it, they will come.Perhaps this little fantasy should be titled "Brownfield of Dreams." The names of the principal characters -- M.... More >>
Euclidean Math Euclidean Math
The numbers may be a little higher than you'd expect for Vietnamese food in St. Louis, but Little Saigon Café's offerings add up to an enjoyable meal
, June 06, 2001
The key to enjoying Little Saigon Café is walking in with the proper set of expectations.After years of conditioning that 8 bucks is a pretty... More >>
Hog Heaven Hog Heaven
New Haven's Front Street Grille attracts a clientele ranging from bikers to locals but manages to make them all happy
, May 30, 2001
Welcome Kirkwood HOG," announced a Budweiser banner flapping above the door of Connolly's Front Street Grille. An unbroken line of Harleys snaked... More >>
Tei Time Tei Time
With her new restaurant, Nippon Tei, Ann Bognar outdoes herself
, May 23, 2001
I used to think Ann Bognar simply had a knack for serving good food in very pleasant surroundings. With her newest restaurant, Nippon Tei, I'm... More >>
Cupples Therapy Cupples Therapy
Despite its glorious setting in the Westin St. Louis at Cupples Station, the new Clark Street Grill needs help
, May 16, 2001
This place has an identity crisis," my friend concluded as we finished our $28 entrées at the elegant Clark Street Grill. "With its name and its... More >>
Sprouting Seed Sprouting Seed
Have faith -- the Mustard Seed is on track to being a safe bet for a good meal
, May 09, 2001
Harry "Doug" Douglas must have had, at very least, faith as small as a mustard seed when trying to move his mountain of a restaurant into the... More >>
Family Tradition Family Tradition
Corky's Restaurant lifts classic American comfort food to new heights
, May 02, 2001
The standard by which an eatery should be appraised is how well it succeeds at whatever it aspires to be, be it a drugstore soda fountain or a... More >>
Gone Fishin' Gone Fishin'
The St. Louis Fish Market is sure to hook diners
, April 25, 2001
Here's a real whopper for you: a brand-new, high-end seafood restaurant, seating upwards of 150 people, with something like 30 fish and shellfish... More >>
Lotsa Matzo Lotsa Matzo
After a tour of St. Louis' finest, our reviewer knows from deli
, April 18, 2001
"You don't have to be Jewish to enjoy Levy's," declared a 1965 Manhattan billboard advertising a popular brand of rye bread. A fatuous... More >>
New Kids on the Block New Kids on the Block
The fledgling restaurateurs of La Piazza strike gold
, April 11, 2001
No prior experience necessary.It's not very often that a rookie breaks into the majors and is instantly competitive, but that seems to be the... More >>
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