Restaurant Reviews

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Georgia Satellite Georgia Satellite
Café Lavash goes to the Republic of Georgia so you don't have to
, August 21, 2002
Before I even sat down at Café Lavash, a Georgian restaurant located on Olive, a few concerns were spinning around in my head. The first involved... More >>
Planet Asia Planet Asia
The newly renamed Asian Grille tries to be all things Eastern but fails
, August 14, 2002
These cooks, how they stamp, and strain, and grind, and turn substance into accident! -- Geoffrey Chaucer The food here is very, very good,"... More >>
Chez Clayton Chez Clayton
Despite a few misses, Café de France will remind you of how good French cuisine can be
, August 07, 2002
Eighteenth-century Swiss philosopher Jean-Jacques Rousseau was ahead of his time in more ways than one. He was a vegetarian who advocated eating... More >>
Central Station Central Station
Even after 30 years, Duff's can incite rapture in diners
, July 31, 2002
In heaven, the chosen few will have access to fresh peaches year-round, and handmaidens and manservants will replenish your bowl of fresh peach... More >>
Pepper Rally Pepper Rally
If you like bar food, you'll love the Pepper
, July 24, 2002
Disasters are often accompanied by ominous noises to which human intuition has been profitably sensitive for eons. "Run like hell" suggests the... More >>
Classic Collection Classic Collection
The dècor is nothing to write home about, but Luciano's sure-handed take on Italian favorites ensures that you won't care
, July 17, 2002
"When your most prominent architectural feature is the exit sign, you know you have a problem," my dining companion observed dryly as we surveyed... More >>
Larger Than Life Larger Than Life
A meal at Truffles will make you glad to be alive
, July 10, 2002
I suffered a nasty jar when the Truffles menu intimated that Babs' twice-baked potato would contain, er, truffles. On the subject of potatoes I... More >>
Flying Fish Flying Fish
Goofy name aside, Wholly Mackerel has a promising future
, July 03, 2002
Corny puns and double-entendres have infiltrated pop culture more insidiously than the arrival of celebrity restaurateurs such as Britney Spears,... More >>
A Grand Time A Grand Time
Pho Saigon delivers delicious, authentic food in a forgotten corner of the South Grand strip
, June 26, 2002
There is no such thing, my father enjoys reminding me daily, as a free lunch. I'm no economist, but the doctrine would also seem to suggest, as a... More >>
French Connection French Connection
Leon Bierbaum's renowned namesake restaurant needs some polishing
, June 19, 2002
Leon Bierbaum is a bon vivant of the old school, the kind of oenophile who prefers a third-growth Bordeaux to the hottest Napa Valley cult... More >>
Paradise Regained Paradise Regained
Let us all now meditate on our family motto: In Soo conquers all.
, June 12, 2002
I'm not the woman I was, and I'll tell you why. In the gay days of my callow youth, I could expect to be up and about, dancing like fat in a... More >>
Throw Mama Throw Mama
Spaghetteria Mama Mia offers value-priced, authentic meals of either spaghetti or baked spiedini. The concept doesn't translate well into practice.
, June 05, 2002
Last week I was moping around in my pajamas, distraught about having been pilloried on the Hill, when I had a sudden and unlikely craving for... More >>
Bohemian Rhapsody Bohemian Rhapsody
Longtime artsy hangout Mangia Italiano gets a new lease on life
, May 29, 2002
Mangia really used to suck. Not that it didn't exude an agreeable, if gritty, flava. Before this year's takeover by new management, the revered... More >>
Pearl in a Shell Pearl in a Shell
Zinnia is a glowing example of great dining in an unlikely setting
, May 22, 2002
When I was a high-school student in Panama City, Florida, kegs at weekend parties were always accompanied by twenty-pound mesh bags of pristine... More >>
Fond Affections Fond Affections
Love her or hate her, the RFT's most talked-about food reviewer is back
, May 15, 2002
Unquestionably the avocado is the most voluptuous of fruits. That it is no longer fashionable points to grave faults in the underpinnings of... More >>
Picture of Lily's Picture of Lily's
A friendly family offers a sweet and charming introduction to Mexican home cooking
, May 08, 2002
But for a stolen car in San Diego, St. Louis might never have tasted Salvador and Adela Esparza's Mexican home cooking.The Esparzas relocated to... More >>
So Over the Hill So Over the Hill
Bella Città isn't your parents' idea of an Italian restaurant, but, chances are, they'll love it too
, May 01, 2002
Dining on the Hill can be summed up in one word: predictable. Like Gaslight Square in San Diego and the French Quarter in New Orleans, the Hill... More >>
Grand Funk Grand Funk
Wildly successful restaurateur Eddie Neill does it again -- or does he?
, April 24, 2002
Now playing at The Bistro in Grand Center: A Tale of Two Cities.The latest brave soul trying to make a go in the charming, funky space... More >>
Something About Harry Something About Harry
Graced with a spectacular view and even better food, Harry's is the place to go
, April 17, 2002
Lively jazz is a regular background fixture at Harry's downtown, but the management might consider instituting a ritual of "Rhapsody in Blue"... More >>
Grand Junction Grand Junction
The landmark restaurants of Grand Boulevard still pack 'em in
, April 10, 2002
We depart from the usual format this week to bring you a two-for-one special. Recently, as we were driving down deep South Grand with an old... More >>
That's a Winner That's a Winner
Culinary star David Slay teams up with baseball great Ozzie Smith to produce a terrific dining experience
, April 03, 2002
Dining at a new David Slay restaurant is like seeing the latest Tom Hanks pic: Your high expectations are usually met. Smith & Slay's combines... More >>
Wonderful Life Wonderful Life
Bosnian immigrants bring a taste of home to St. Louis
, March 27, 2002
Bosnian pop music provided the background as we scanned the menu at Grbic´, a new restaurant at the corner of Meramec and Keokuk in South St.... More >>
Shallow Grove Shallow Grove
St. Louis legend Busch's Grove doesn't deserve its exalted status
, March 20, 2002
"I knew I should've given up food for Lent," wisecracked my guest as the waiter removed his nearly full plate. We were dining at Busch's Grove, a... More >>
Hama Time Hama Time
Renowned local sushi chef Naomi Hamamura opens up another location of Sansui
, March 13, 2002
If Naomi Hamamura, a.k.a. Hama-san, asks you to trust him, take him up on it.Hama-san has been spending most of his time lately at the second... More >>
Alton Giant Alton Giant
Grafton restaurateur Aaron Whalen takes his show to town
, March 06, 2002
When we first heard that there was a new, rather upscale restaurant in "downtown" Alton called Aaron's, we pictured another alternative in the... More >>
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