Restaurant Reviews

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Turn, Turn and Eat Turn, Turn and Eat
The weather outside is frightful, but Jay Brandt's cooked up something to make you feel better
, December 04, 2002
There's a time and a season for everything, and a restaurant's turning to a new menu to match the calendar and climate is no exception.With those... More >>
Something's Fishy Something's Fishy
Welcome to Aqua Vin, the seafood restaurant for people who aren't all that thrilled about the stuff
, November 27, 2002
There's this great throwaway line from one of the old "Wayne's World" sketches on Saturday Night Live in which Wayne ponders possible etymologies... More >>
Three's a Charm Three's a Charm
From a trio of locations, Las Palmas offers Mexican comfort food for most everyone in St. Louis
, November 20, 2002
A theory: It's possible to judge the quality of the food at a Mexican restaurant by the presence, or lack thereof, of handpainted murals. If... More >>
The Little Things Count The Little Things Count
McGurk's never disappoints, because it gets the little things right
, November 13, 2002
The Irish aren't exactly known for their subtlety. That pesky potato famine sure did a number on the homeland; the IRA has been known to send a... More >>
Perfection Is Possible Perfection Is Possible
At Tony's, it doesn't matter what you choose -- everything is stellar
, November 06, 2002
One of the many hilarious consequences of writing about eating out is that people tend to make screwy food-related assumptions about you.One such... More >>
Ichibantastic Ichibantastic
New sushi joint is quite a catch
, October 30, 2002
My brother prefers to dodge moral quandaries when he eats out. To ensure that he's not helping wipe out any threatened species, he carries a list... More >>
U.S. Prime U.S. Prime
If we don't eat meat, the terrorists win
, October 23, 2002
As the new war season starts to heat up, the American experience can increasingly be defined in terms of the extent to which we (a) agree to be... More >>
Italian for Beginners Italian for Beginners
Café Napoli's popularity is baffling
, October 16, 2002
Cookbooks featuring recipes with only a few ingredients have become popular in recent years. At any online bookstore, for example, you can buy... More >>
India Kitchen India Kitchen
Nothing to write home about, but certainly worth the trip
, October 09, 2002
The folks at India Kitchen don't hold a grudge. They recognized me on my second visit to their restaurant and still greeted me with smiles and... More >>
Coeur Project Coeur Project
The hunt for authentic ethnic fare leads to a Creve Coeur strip mall
, October 02, 2002
Jean-François Lyotard, late French dude-of-many-theories, argued that modern societies maintain the illusion of order through "grand narratives"... More >>
By the Numbers By the Numbers
Though 12 North's name is unimaginative, its food is anything but
, September 18, 2002
A fad in New York City a few years ago was to name restaurants after their addresses. Eleven Madison Park, 55 Wall and Fifty Seven Fifty Seven... More >>
Window Under Washington Window Under Washington
What you see is not always what you get at the beautiful Washington Avenue Bistro
, September 11, 2002
Washington Avenue Bistro is maddeningly erratic, swooping from sublime to substandard. It's a culinary version of Russian roulette: Win, and... More >>
Hot and Bothered Hot and Bothered
Provisions Bistro turns up the heat after morphing out of its Grenache beginnings
, September 04, 2002
Our waiter, who was goofy, said he had hit upon a brilliant idea: He would bring out the appetizer before serving the rest of our dinner. He made... More >>
Sherman's March Sherman's March
The venerable Billy Sherman's Deli makes a move but doesn't stray too far from where it came
, August 28, 2002
There's no downtime at Billy Sherman's Deli. When owner Pat Hallahan pulls into the lot at 7 a.m., he often finds a queue of men standing outside... More >>
Georgia Satellite Georgia Satellite
Café Lavash goes to the Republic of Georgia so you don't have to
, August 21, 2002
Before I even sat down at Café Lavash, a Georgian restaurant located on Olive, a few concerns were spinning around in my head. The first involved... More >>
Planet Asia Planet Asia
The newly renamed Asian Grille tries to be all things Eastern but fails
, August 14, 2002
These cooks, how they stamp, and strain, and grind, and turn substance into accident! -- Geoffrey Chaucer The food here is very, very good,"... More >>
Chez Clayton Chez Clayton
Despite a few misses, Café de France will remind you of how good French cuisine can be
, August 07, 2002
Eighteenth-century Swiss philosopher Jean-Jacques Rousseau was ahead of his time in more ways than one. He was a vegetarian who advocated eating... More >>
Central Station Central Station
Even after 30 years, Duff's can incite rapture in diners
, July 31, 2002
In heaven, the chosen few will have access to fresh peaches year-round, and handmaidens and manservants will replenish your bowl of fresh peach... More >>
Pepper Rally Pepper Rally
If you like bar food, you'll love the Pepper
, July 24, 2002
Disasters are often accompanied by ominous noises to which human intuition has been profitably sensitive for eons. "Run like hell" suggests the... More >>
Classic Collection Classic Collection
The dècor is nothing to write home about, but Luciano's sure-handed take on Italian favorites ensures that you won't care
, July 17, 2002
"When your most prominent architectural feature is the exit sign, you know you have a problem," my dining companion observed dryly as we surveyed... More >>
Larger Than Life Larger Than Life
A meal at Truffles will make you glad to be alive
, July 10, 2002
I suffered a nasty jar when the Truffles menu intimated that Babs' twice-baked potato would contain, er, truffles. On the subject of potatoes I... More >>
Flying Fish Flying Fish
Goofy name aside, Wholly Mackerel has a promising future
, July 03, 2002
Corny puns and double-entendres have infiltrated pop culture more insidiously than the arrival of celebrity restaurateurs such as Britney Spears,... More >>
A Grand Time A Grand Time
Pho Saigon delivers delicious, authentic food in a forgotten corner of the South Grand strip
, June 26, 2002
There is no such thing, my father enjoys reminding me daily, as a free lunch. I'm no economist, but the doctrine would also seem to suggest, as a... More >>
French Connection French Connection
Leon Bierbaum's renowned namesake restaurant needs some polishing
, June 19, 2002
Leon Bierbaum is a bon vivant of the old school, the kind of oenophile who prefers a third-growth Bordeaux to the hottest Napa Valley cult... More >>
Paradise Regained Paradise Regained
Let us all now meditate on our family motto: In Soo conquers all.
, June 12, 2002
I'm not the woman I was, and I'll tell you why. In the gay days of my callow youth, I could expect to be up and about, dancing like fat in a... More >>
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