Restaurant Reviews

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Old-Fashioned Healthy Old-Fashioned Healthy
The food overflows at Diamond Mineral Springs
, August 02, 2000
You don't really need a family along with you to eat "family style," but it sure helps. We stuffed all seven of us into the van a few weeks ago... More >>
Brulee Brouhaha
The hot controversy over cold crème brûlée
, August 02, 2000
A couple of recent letter-writers were quite incensed that I would object to a crème brûlée's being served cold, concluding that I'd rarely, if... More >>
Siamese Twin Siamese Twin
The new Sukho Thai provides a meal every bit as enjoyable as the offerings of its West County sibling
, July 26, 2000
Walking in the front door on our first visit to Sukho Thai was, to quote Yogi Berra, like déjà vu all over again. Although the orientation and... More >>
A Summer Riddle
Andy Ayers presents inquisitive diners with new culinary experiences at Riddle's Penultimate Cafe & Wine Bar
, July 26, 2000
Andy Ayers has long been one of my favorite characters on the St. Louis restaurant scene, ever since we first visited his tiny original... More >>
Not Your Ordinary Joe Not Your Ordinary Joe
Joseph's of Kirkwood is every bit the equal of its downtown counterpart
, July 19, 2000
It's all right there in black and white: Joseph's in Kirkwood is one very fine restaurant. Nonetheless, our visit to this, the younger of the... More >>
Mulligan Stew
A canapé tray of local food news
, July 19, 2000
Here are some more random tidbits from official and unofficial sources on the local food scene: First, from the Department of D'oh!, a couple of... More >>
'Cue, Part II 'Cue, Part II
Following the smoke signals to more of this town's best barbecue
, July 12, 2000
We first stuck our noses in the air and followed the smoke to local houses of barbecue the week before the ceremonial kickoff of the grilling... More >>
The Least Side The Least Side
The latest incarnation of Harry's lets down its siblings across the river
, July 05, 2000
Hey, great salad. Nice cracked-olive spread for the bread, too. Between the fabulous experiences we've had at Harry's downtown -- a combination... More >>
Summer Better than Others
The pleasures of warm-weather eating and drinking
, July 05, 2000
Here's a variety of totally random openings and other food-and-wine activities for your summer-distraction pleasure, culled from several weeks of... More >>
Heard It Through the Grapevine Heard It Through the Grapevine
Once Upon a Vine sends tendrils down the South Grand strip
, June 28, 2000
The corner of Grand and Arsenal -- and, specifically, the restaurant called Once Upon a Vine -- is something of a metaphor for the whole... More >>
Just Mad About Madeleine
The Piper Palm House's new Café Madeleine makes for a sweet Sunday
, June 28, 2000
I can only believe the reason there isn't a line outside of Café Madeleine waiting to get in when it opens at 10 o'clock on Sunday mornings has... More >>
Get Your Goat Get Your Goat
Making a passage to India Palace for interesting, tasty fare
, June 21, 2000
And now, a word or two in praise of goat. It's probably even rarer than emu on local menus, although it's been showing up a bit more frequently... More >>
Currying Favor
New Asian restaurants on the St. Louis scene
, June 21, 2000
The landscape in downtown St. Louis was once pretty monochromatic when it came to non-Chinese Asian-food choices, but the opening of Sen Thai... More >>
On with the Show On with the Show
A local Vietnamese eatery's second act draws a rousing ovation
, June 14, 2000
Great Vietnamese cooking remains alive and well in Kenrick Plaza. We were saddened to hear that Mai's Garden, which blazed the trail for... More >>
Yearning to Breathe Free
A note of thanks to some of the immigrants who have broadened St. Louisans' dining options
, June 14, 2000
Dear Mr. and Mrs. Nezirevic: Welcome to America! I hope you're settling in well in the Bevo neighborhood. The thousands of Bosnians who have... More >>
Westerfield Haul Westerfield Haul
Leaving the eaten path for a sumptuous dining experience at the Westerfield House
, June 07, 2000
And now for something completely different. For years, we'd heard about this log cabin in the middle of a cornfield somewhere beyond Eckert's as... More >>
The Little Prints The Little Prints
Taking a long look at the Gallery
, May 31, 2000
Any number of restaurants in town proudly display (sometimes with price tags) artwork, but a relatively new one in Ellisville even takes its name... More >>
The Thrill of the Chase
Anton's, the first of the restaurants to open in the newly rehabbed Chase Park Plaza, delivers moderately priced luxury
, May 31, 2000
We ducked in for lunch at Anton's, the first of the new restaurants in the renovation of the Chase (now again known as the Chase-Park Plaza), and... More >>
Smoke Signals Smoke Signals
Touring area 'cue joints proves to be a saucy experience
, May 24, 2000
Although a few of the great "seasonal" barbecue shacks still exist (most notably Barney's in Ellisville, which opened last weekend, just past the... More >>
Mixed Impressionism Mixed Impressionism
The European Caffé falls short of masterpiece status
, May 17, 2000
Long before the recent popularity of places like Yia Yia's and Grenache (and even Remy's, now a relative old-timer on the local restaurant... More >>
Marty Merryin'
Marty's Baking is on the rise
, May 17, 2000
It's not exactly in Soulard, and it's not exactly in Lafayette Square, but it's really close to both, and it's certainly just a couple of minutes... More >>
Able Kane Able Kane
Our reviewer presents a bouquet of rosebuds to Citizen Kane's steakhouse
, May 10, 2000
When you're born with a name like Kane, receive a good Jesuit education and end up in the restaurant biz, the potential angle for a name for a... More >>
Tony's for Lunch
OK, not really Tony's -- Anthony's. But you'll still get a great meal.
, May 10, 2000
OK, not really. You wanna eat at Tony's itself, it's dinner only. But weekdays, across the lobby of the Equitable Building (that giant mirror... More >>
Pho Nouveau Pho Nouveau
A move to larger quarters brings Pho Grand nigh unto perfection
, May 03, 2000
For most of its 11-year existence, just about the only thing remotely negative that anyone has been able to say about Pho Grand was that its... More >>
Garden Spot
Savoring the joys of neighborhood at the Soulard Coffee Garden
, May 03, 2000
Our little South St. Louis neighborhood called Soulard is just about as close as we come around these parts to urban utopia: a healthy mix of... More >>
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