Restaurant Reviews

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River Run River Run
Whalen's on the Wharf sets its ambitions high and fulfills them admirably
, March 07, 2001
Our travels this week take us to Grafton, a picturesque river town about 20 minutes north of Alton, directly up the Great River Road. In stark... More >>
Flat Feed Flat Feed
Defying the new trend of sky-high entrées, Sidney Street Café chef Sue Dill lies low
, February 28, 2001
Chef Sue Dill's dishes are Mary Janes in a season of stiletto food. While swank chefs construct tottering layers of edible scaffolding known as... More >>
Zum Zum In Zum Zum In
South Grand's newest restaurant promises delicious Subcontinental cuisine and exquisitely personal service
, February 21, 2001
In some restaurants, especially at ethnic places, it's considered a compliment to say, "It was just as if I'd been invited into their home." It's... More >>
Horse Sense Horse Sense
The Wild Horse Grill stampedes onto the Chesterfield Valley floodplain
, February 14, 2001
This one is just too hard to resist: It sure seems as if there's a flood of new restaurants in the Chesterfield Valley now, doesn't it?One of the... More >>
Flower Power Flower Power
David Slay's new restaurant, Zu Zu's Petals, reminds diners that it is indeed a wonderful life
, February 07, 2001
What's the matter -- do you feel like you're at Culpeppers?" quipped my dining companion as our waiter set a plate of stubby jalapeño poppers... More >>
Catching Some Z Catching Some Z
Trust us -- the food at Z is great. You just won't be able to see it.
, January 31, 2001
To all of you who may have been thus far avoiding Z, the new restaurant that has taken over the old Hot Locust space, because you're dubious... More >>
Meating Place Meating Place
Clancy's Butcher Shop and Catering purveys everything from top-notch gourmet meats to down-home barbecue
, January 24, 2001
Puritan Dainty Meat à la Ginger Ale: Place Dainty Meat in a saucepan, and add two cups of ginger ale. Cover and cook slowly for 2 hours or until... More >>
Flows and Eddie's Flows and Eddie's
Cheap, tasty eats and engaging atmosphere abound at Fast Eddie'sBon-Air
, January 17, 2001
Whether or not Fast Eddie's Bon-Air is, as one of its brochures boasts, the "#1 volume bar in the world," the place is incredible. About to... More >>
Southern Comfort Southern Comfort
The Southern Belle Supper Club puts diners at ease with its food and its décor
, January 10, 2001
I guess these things go in cycles. Maybe about 20 years ago, a jovial guy named Richard Perry revived an old building on Jefferson Avenue in... More >>
Market Research Market Research
University City's Market in the Loop is home to Fatima's, a new Nigerian restaurant
, January 03, 2001
We specially cater for your stomach for your food needs," reads a clumsily translated signboard propped up next to a café in Lagos, Nigeria.... More >>
Side Dish
The latest offering from wine purveyors: the white merlot
, January 03, 2001
A wily enologist has been toiling in a Napa Valley lab, blending beakers of white zinfandel with flasks of merlot. The result is white merlot, a... More >>
Let Them Eat Y2Cake Let Them Eat Y2Cake
Dining out at the end of the millennium
, December 27, 2000
Here's some of what I saw on the St. Louis food scene as the second millennium drew to a close:First, the highs. The resurrection of the Chase... More >>
Seoul Searching Seoul Searching
On the lookout for St. Louis' best Korean food
, December 20, 2000
Just last month, Saveur magazine, probably my favorite food periodical, proclaimed Korean food the "least-known great Asian cuisine in the... More >>
Air Fare Air Fare
Once reviled as a last recourse, airport food has gone upscale
, December 13, 2000
The term "suspension of disbelief" takes on a whole new meaning when you grab one of those white-handled paper sacks from the cart on the... More >>
Side Dish
What comestibles do local chefs take on the road?
, December 13, 2000
Is that pâté in your pocket, or are you just glad to see me? A plastic cylinder filled with green-peppercorn pâté is what chef Mark Wentz, of... More >>
Send in the Marinos Send in the Marinos
Longtime Pasta House man Tony Marino opens up his own place in Ballwin
, December 06, 2000
Tony Marino. Tony Marino. Why do we know that name?Well, it could be the guy who fronted Mike Shannon's downtown for many years -- great... More >>
Side Dish
Phillips-Selkirk uncorks its St. Louis wine auction
, December 06, 2000
Speaking of the inaugural Phillips-Selkirk wine auction, which was held Nov. 18, it's going to be interesting to see whether St. Louis can earn a... More >>
Eat and Run Eat and Run
Guido's Pizza and Tapas evokes the spirit of Spain's cafe-to-cafe noshing tradition
, November 29, 2000
The young people in Spain, they never get drunk. "Tortilla, tortilla, bring us more tortilla!' they cry, and they just keep drinking all night,"... More >>
Side Dish
Even working chefs aren't immune to the lure of those celebrity-chef cookbooks
, November 29, 2000
Pappardelle with osso buco sauce or Stone Cold's rattlesnake-rib rub? How to decide? The two best-selling cookbooks at the week of... More >>
Dim Sum-mary Dim Sum-mary
Yes, St. Louis has dim sum. Yes, it's good.
, November 22, 2000
Usually it's a transplant, someone new to the area, or maybe a traveler recently returned from one of the coasts. Steadily, though, come the... More >>
Some Like It Hot Some Like It Hot
Maharaja curries a taste for the spices of India
, November 15, 2000
A study conducted at Britain's Nottingham Trent University, reported last month in the Times of London, cautioned that diners with a weakness for... More >>
Musing on Biggie's Musing on Biggie's
Stan the Man is nowhere to be seen, but this South Side restaurant is a hit
, November 08, 2000
Biggie’s is, in more ways than one, between Hatfield’s Tavern and Trattoria Marcella, but closer to Hatfield’s. Probably not well known to... More >>
Side Dish
Before you pick up that fork, have a thought for the men and women in blue
, November 08, 2000
While eating at Biggie's, I noticed several people wearing sweatshirts saluting the late Officer Robert Stanze of the St. Louis Police... More >>
The Story of Eau The Story of Eau
The Chase Park Plaza harks back to its heyday with the addition of a spectacular new restaurant
, November 01, 2000
Slowly, magically, the kingdom of Khorassan is being rebuilt for the modern era.We're not talking about the silly Veiled Prophet stuff, which,... More >>
Side Dish
Heeding the call of the wild at Fio's La Fourchette
, November 01, 2000
Fair warning: The annual five weeks of "game menu" at Fio's La Fourchette (7515 Forsyth Blvd., 314-863-6866) begins Wednesday, Nov. 8.Last year's... More >>
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