Restaurant Reviews

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Let Them Eat Y2Cake Let Them Eat Y2Cake
Dining out at the end of the millennium
, December 27, 2000
Here's some of what I saw on the St. Louis food scene as the second millennium drew to a close:First, the highs. The resurrection of the Chase... More >>
Seoul Searching Seoul Searching
On the lookout for St. Louis' best Korean food
, December 20, 2000
Just last month, Saveur magazine, probably my favorite food periodical, proclaimed Korean food the "least-known great Asian cuisine in the... More >>
Air Fare Air Fare
Once reviled as a last recourse, airport food has gone upscale
, December 13, 2000
The term "suspension of disbelief" takes on a whole new meaning when you grab one of those white-handled paper sacks from the cart on the... More >>
Side Dish
What comestibles do local chefs take on the road?
, December 13, 2000
Is that pâté in your pocket, or are you just glad to see me? A plastic cylinder filled with green-peppercorn pâté is what chef Mark Wentz, of... More >>
Send in the Marinos Send in the Marinos
Longtime Pasta House man Tony Marino opens up his own place in Ballwin
, December 06, 2000
Tony Marino. Tony Marino. Why do we know that name?Well, it could be the guy who fronted Mike Shannon's downtown for many years -- great... More >>
Side Dish
Phillips-Selkirk uncorks its St. Louis wine auction
, December 06, 2000
Speaking of the inaugural Phillips-Selkirk wine auction, which was held Nov. 18, it's going to be interesting to see whether St. Louis can earn a... More >>
Eat and Run Eat and Run
Guido's Pizza and Tapas evokes the spirit of Spain's cafe-to-cafe noshing tradition
, November 29, 2000
The young people in Spain, they never get drunk. "Tortilla, tortilla, bring us more tortilla!' they cry, and they just keep drinking all night,"... More >>
Side Dish
Even working chefs aren't immune to the lure of those celebrity-chef cookbooks
, November 29, 2000
Pappardelle with osso buco sauce or Stone Cold's rattlesnake-rib rub? How to decide? The two best-selling cookbooks at the week of... More >>
Dim Sum-mary Dim Sum-mary
Yes, St. Louis has dim sum. Yes, it's good.
, November 22, 2000
Usually it's a transplant, someone new to the area, or maybe a traveler recently returned from one of the coasts. Steadily, though, come the... More >>
Some Like It Hot Some Like It Hot
Maharaja curries a taste for the spices of India
, November 15, 2000
A study conducted at Britain's Nottingham Trent University, reported last month in the Times of London, cautioned that diners with a weakness for... More >>
Musing on Biggie's Musing on Biggie's
Stan the Man is nowhere to be seen, but this South Side restaurant is a hit
, November 08, 2000
Biggie’s is, in more ways than one, between Hatfield’s Tavern and Trattoria Marcella, but closer to Hatfield’s. Probably not well known to... More >>
Side Dish
Before you pick up that fork, have a thought for the men and women in blue
, November 08, 2000
While eating at Biggie's, I noticed several people wearing sweatshirts saluting the late Officer Robert Stanze of the St. Louis Police... More >>
The Story of Eau The Story of Eau
The Chase Park Plaza harks back to its heyday with the addition of a spectacular new restaurant
, November 01, 2000
Slowly, magically, the kingdom of Khorassan is being rebuilt for the modern era.We're not talking about the silly Veiled Prophet stuff, which,... More >>
Side Dish
Heeding the call of the wild at Fio's La Fourchette
, November 01, 2000
Fair warning: The annual five weeks of "game menu" at Fio's La Fourchette (7515 Forsyth Blvd., 314-863-6866) begins Wednesday, Nov. 8.Last year's... More >>
Jim Dandy Jim Dandy
Jimmy's Café on the Park delivers great food in an engaging atmosphere
, October 25, 2000
Casual observation suggests that a wide gender gap exists among bread-pudding enthusiasts. Women seem to be comforted by its timid taste and... More >>
Side Dish
How to make an apple martini that's fit for dessert
, October 25, 2000
It's not easy being green, but the martini has made the transition handily. Apple martinis are the hot new drink on both coasts, having... More >>
Medium Well Medium Well
With some extra attention to precision, the new Carmine's Steak House could become the purveyor of some of the best meals in town
, October 18, 2000
Now, I would have thought that with a location in something called the American Zinc Building, a signature restaurant in the French-bistro style... More >>
Walk in the Park Walk in the Park
Park Avenue Bistro lives up to its expensive moniker but doesn't deliver a dinner to match
, October 11, 2000
The floodlit Victorian mansions that line Park Avenue look eerily handsome as you drive past them under a hazy autumn moon. These Gilded Age... More >>
Take It with a Grain of Salt
Giving the food world's latest rage a fair shake
, October 11, 2000
Next to white king salmon, microgreens and garlic roots, the hottest ingredient in New York restaurants this fall is salt. Yes, salt. But given... More >>
Pick Your Poisson Pick Your Poisson
The Gulf Coast Café fills the vacant niche for seafood both on the South Grand strip and in the city of St. Louis
, October 04, 2000
Chalk up another benefit from the Bosnian boom in the city of St. Louis. The space where Pho Grand built up its loyal following with food,... More >>
Keep Yourself Alive
Cardinal outfielder Eric Davis calls for a check at a recent dinner party
, October 04, 2000
OK, let's dispense with the usual whimsy found in this space and talk about something deadly serious. A couple of weeks ago, on an off-day for... More >>
Russian Roulette Russian Roulette
A visit to Astoria European Cuisine yields mixed but largely enjoyable results
, September 20, 2000
"The chef has burned your chicken Kiev," our server explained candidly, "but he's making you another one. Would you like a few shots of vodka... More >>
Killer B. Killer B.
One chef makes the jump from country club to Clayton, with delicious results
, September 13, 2000
The first clue to the personality of Brian Menzel, a longtime country-club chef who has just opened the first restaurant of his very own, B.... More >>
Second Opinion
Welcoming dining reviewer Melissa Martin to the RFT staff
, September 13, 2000
Next week we welcome a new invisible face to this page in the person of Melissa Martin, whose reviews will alternate with mine. Web-savvy... More >>
Smoking Gunn Smoking Gunn
Annie Gunn's aims to please
, September 06, 2000
If chef Lou Rook III has had previous lives, one of them may have been as George Gershwin. Rook truly is an artist at flavor composition, and... More >>
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