Restaurant Reviews

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Side Dish
Heeding the call of the wild at Fio's La Fourchette
, November 01, 2000
Fair warning: The annual five weeks of "game menu" at Fio's La Fourchette (7515 Forsyth Blvd., 314-863-6866) begins Wednesday, Nov. 8.Last year's... More >>
Jim Dandy Jim Dandy
Jimmy's Café on the Park delivers great food in an engaging atmosphere
, October 25, 2000
Casual observation suggests that a wide gender gap exists among bread-pudding enthusiasts. Women seem to be comforted by its timid taste and... More >>
Side Dish
How to make an apple martini that's fit for dessert
, October 25, 2000
It's not easy being green, but the martini has made the transition handily. Apple martinis are the hot new drink on both coasts, having... More >>
Medium Well Medium Well
With some extra attention to precision, the new Carmine's Steak House could become the purveyor of some of the best meals in town
, October 18, 2000
Now, I would have thought that with a location in something called the American Zinc Building, a signature restaurant in the French-bistro style... More >>
Walk in the Park Walk in the Park
Park Avenue Bistro lives up to its expensive moniker but doesn't deliver a dinner to match
, October 11, 2000
The floodlit Victorian mansions that line Park Avenue look eerily handsome as you drive past them under a hazy autumn moon. These Gilded Age... More >>
Take It with a Grain of Salt
Giving the food world's latest rage a fair shake
, October 11, 2000
Next to white king salmon, microgreens and garlic roots, the hottest ingredient in New York restaurants this fall is salt. Yes, salt. But given... More >>
Pick Your Poisson Pick Your Poisson
The Gulf Coast Café fills the vacant niche for seafood both on the South Grand strip and in the city of St. Louis
, October 04, 2000
Chalk up another benefit from the Bosnian boom in the city of St. Louis. The space where Pho Grand built up its loyal following with food,... More >>
Keep Yourself Alive
Cardinal outfielder Eric Davis calls for a check at a recent dinner party
, October 04, 2000
OK, let's dispense with the usual whimsy found in this space and talk about something deadly serious. A couple of weeks ago, on an off-day for... More >>
Russian Roulette Russian Roulette
A visit to Astoria European Cuisine yields mixed but largely enjoyable results
, September 20, 2000
"The chef has burned your chicken Kiev," our server explained candidly, "but he's making you another one. Would you like a few shots of vodka... More >>
Killer B. Killer B.
One chef makes the jump from country club to Clayton, with delicious results
, September 13, 2000
The first clue to the personality of Brian Menzel, a longtime country-club chef who has just opened the first restaurant of his very own, B.... More >>
Second Opinion
Welcoming dining reviewer Melissa Martin to the RFT staff
, September 13, 2000
Next week we welcome a new invisible face to this page in the person of Melissa Martin, whose reviews will alternate with mine. Web-savvy... More >>
Smoking Gunn Smoking Gunn
Annie Gunn's aims to please
, September 06, 2000
If chef Lou Rook III has had previous lives, one of them may have been as George Gershwin. Rook truly is an artist at flavor composition, and... More >>
Banking the Coals Banking the Coals
Getting fired up for the summer's last look at local barbecue joints
, August 30, 2000
One of the more colorful theories on the origin of the word "barbecue" is that it stems from the French barbe à queue, meaning "beard to tail," a... More >>
Alternate Route Alternate Route
Despite a new name and location, the sights are largely the same at Route 66 Brewery and Restaurant
, August 23, 2000
Hi. My name is Joe, and I'm an economist. I'd been getting better for a very long time. In fact, I hadn't even looked at a Beige Book or even... More >>
Fish Story Fish Story
The new R.L. Steamers has quite a tale to tell
, August 16, 2000
Our little R.L. Steamers is suddenly all grown up. And, as is often the case when a youngster matures, there's reason to be proud, but there can... More >>
Cyberchow
Where local foodies (and food lovers who disdain the term) congregate online
, August 16, 2000
We recently stumbled on another place to talk online about the local food scene, and that gave us an excuse to remind you that you can also talk... More >>
Show of Farsi Show of Farsi
Pickles and pomegranates rule the day, with enjoyable results, at Café Natasha
, August 09, 2000
Because Persia is now commonly known as Iran and the general American view of Iran has been skewed by the contentious relations of the past... More >>
Locust Plague
The fire at Hot Locust is abruptly stamped out
, August 09, 2000
The warning signals started flashing last Tuesday, when luncheon diners mysteriously could not use credit cards at Hot Locust, which received... More >>
Old-Fashioned Healthy Old-Fashioned Healthy
The food overflows at Diamond Mineral Springs
, August 02, 2000
You don't really need a family along with you to eat "family style," but it sure helps. We stuffed all seven of us into the van a few weeks ago... More >>
Brulee Brouhaha
The hot controversy over cold crème brûlée
, August 02, 2000
A couple of recent letter-writers were quite incensed that I would object to a crème brûlée's being served cold, concluding that I'd rarely, if... More >>
Siamese Twin Siamese Twin
The new Sukho Thai provides a meal every bit as enjoyable as the offerings of its West County sibling
, July 26, 2000
Walking in the front door on our first visit to Sukho Thai was, to quote Yogi Berra, like déjà vu all over again. Although the orientation and... More >>
A Summer Riddle
Andy Ayers presents inquisitive diners with new culinary experiences at Riddle's Penultimate Cafe & Wine Bar
, July 26, 2000
Andy Ayers has long been one of my favorite characters on the St. Louis restaurant scene, ever since we first visited his tiny original... More >>
Not Your Ordinary Joe Not Your Ordinary Joe
Joseph's of Kirkwood is every bit the equal of its downtown counterpart
, July 19, 2000
It's all right there in black and white: Joseph's in Kirkwood is one very fine restaurant. Nonetheless, our visit to this, the younger of the... More >>
Mulligan Stew
A canapé tray of local food news
, July 19, 2000
Here are some more random tidbits from official and unofficial sources on the local food scene: First, from the Department of D'oh!, a couple of... More >>
'Cue, Part II 'Cue, Part II
Following the smoke signals to more of this town's best barbecue
, July 12, 2000
We first stuck our noses in the air and followed the smoke to local houses of barbecue the week before the ceremonial kickoff of the grilling... More >>
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