Restaurant Reviews

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TABLE TALK
Tidbits from St. Louis' restaurant community
By Joe Bonwich, December 08, 1999
Restaurant life cycles and economics have always been affected by weird seasonal and political factors, one of which is a tendency to open just... More >>
TOP HAYAT AND TALES TOP HAYAT AND TALES
A new Somali restaurant shines against its industrial-wasteland backdrop
By Jill Posey-Smith, December 01, 1999
It is a dark and blustery night. Steve and Sticks and I are careening down Vandeventer in the luxury sedan Sticks got in the divorce. We're... More >>
RISING BREAD
Putting a new spin on an old space at a South St. Louis bakery
By Jill Posey-Smith, December 01, 1999
With the sudden closing of Dickmann's Boulevard Bakery on South Grand, South City loaf-lovers may suspect that their only remaining option is the... More >>
GAME BOY GAME BOY
A wild time was had by all at Fio's La Fourchette
By Joe Bonwich, November 24, 1999
Perhaps it's the influence of the ghosts of my ancient Eastern European ancestors, returning from the hunt to a giant cauldron of bigos stew... More >>
A FEW "CHOICE" WORDS
What makes a restaurant the "best," according to the Post-Dispatch advertising department
By Joe Bonwich, November 24, 1999
Is Fio's La Fourchette the best restaurant in St. Louis, as readers of Gourmet magazine have sometimes anointed it? Or does Tony's deserve that... More >>
Greasy Spoon River Anthology Greasy Spoon River Anthology
Sampling the glories of diner cuisine
By Jill Posey-Smith, November 17, 1999
I was once involved in a slinger affair. It went down like this: Years ago, I darkened the stoop of my first diner. It was 3 o'clock in the... More >>
FINELY AGED FINELY AGED
The Central West End's Balaban's grows old with grace
By Joe Bonwich, November 10, 1999
More than 25 years ago, with my dad ensconced in an elegant two-story suite in the Park Plaza as part of some highfalutin academic conclave, I... More >>
BALABANTER
Revealing the people behind the scene
By Joe Bonwich, November 10, 1999
Although he bought into the business in 1986, co-owner Tom Flynn has been with Balaban's for more than 20 years of the place's existence, making... More >>
MULTIPLE-PERSONALITY DISORDER MULTIPLE-
PERSONALITY
DISORDER
Something-for-everyone restaurant Colorado leaves diners cold
By Jill Posey-Smith, November 03, 1999
My faithful myrmidons for the evening were disaffected rock stars Woofer and Tweeter Le Grand and my old chum Rotten, a federal employee with a... More >>
SUNDAY BEST
MoKaBe's is home to St. Louis' only vegetarian breakfast and the best brunch in town
By Jill Posey-Smith, November 03, 1999
It's Sunday morning -- do you know where your brunch is? For an increasing percentage of St. Louis tastebuds, it's at MoKaBe's Coffeehouse,... More >>
TAXI ZUM 'LOO TAXI ZUM 'LOO
A visit to the German kingdom of Dreamland Palace in Waterloo, Ill.
By Joe Bonwich, October 27, 1999
More >>
GRAPE EXPECTATIONS
Assessing the performance of vintage wines
By Joe Bonwich, October 27, 1999
Dreamland Palace isn't the only old German I've had experience with in the past few weeks. Last month, to celebrate one of those supposedly... More >>
STAR TREK STAR TREK
Our reviewer and her intrepid pals navigate Vietnam Star's gargantuan menu
By Jill Posey-Smith, October 20, 1999
My new rule about Vietnamese restaurants is call first. They're always closed when you need them. Vietnam Star closes on Tuesdays, which I... More >>
Thyme Travel Thyme Travel
Charming old-town Ferguson is the setting for community gathering place the Thyme Table
By Joe Bonwich, October 13, 1999
One of the oft-overlooked riches of the St. Louis region is found in the remnants of old-fashioned small-town downtowns dotting the area from... More >>
Loop Scoop
Lesser-known culinary gems of the University City Loop
By Joe Bonwich, October 13, 1999
In keeping with the lunchtime theme of this week's musings, we had originally intended to ladle out a little ink on the Gourmet Canning Factory,... More >>
MOVING EXPERIENCE MOVING EXPERIENCE
Bar Italia has a new location but retains its old charms
By Jill Posey-Smith, October 06, 1999
Our waiter is bossy. He won't let us order the mozzarella-and-anchovy crostini. Instead, he insists that we try the bruschetta. The exotic word... More >>
GRAPPLING WITH GRAPPA
Learning to love the leftover grape
By Jill Posey-Smith, October 06, 1999
My first — and, until last week, my last — experience with grappa was a bust. It was 15 years ago, but I vividly recall a burning sensation... More >>
Not Half Bad Not Half Bad
Alea's Place, featuring Persian dishes supplemented with Italian standards, needs to brush up on basics but still serves enticing fare
By Joe Bonwich, September 22, 1999
On the surface, it's a great concept: Get the suburbanites excited about a cuisine they might not know (Persian) by hedging the menu with... More >>
HOP TO IT
Fun in the suds at the St. Louis Brewery Tap Room's "Hop in the City" beer festival
By Joe Bonwich, September 22, 1999
For those of us who view historic preservation and adaptive re-use as sacred quests, Tom Schlafly has certainly earned a place in our book of... More >>
Mall-Star Mall-Star
Cardwell's on the Plaza, featuring some of the city's most inspired cooking, is the one place in Plaza Frontenac where debt and energy are devoted to the sustenance of the internal self
By Jill Posey-Smith, September 15, 1999
There are few destinations more repellent than a shopping mall. It's depressing enough watching other consumers devote so much debt and energy to... More >>
MARKET RESEARCH
Cardwell's Market gives fast food a run for the money -- and then some
By Jill Posey-Smith, September 15, 1999
While performing my arduous research on Cardwell's, I noticed a tiny counter tucked away in a corner of the restaurant. This, it turns out, is... More >>
Working Folks Working Folks
Belleville's Three-1-Three does the job on a budget for proletarian gourmets
By Joe Bonwich, September 08, 1999
Perhaps it should be called "proletarian gourmet." Three-1-Three is situated, as befits its name, three blocks off the central roundabout in... More >>
KING SOLOMON'S WINES
A hotshot importer comes to town to drum up interest
By Joe Bonwich, September 08, 1999
Right off the bat, it's clear that Eric Solomon is something of a showman. "The bowling pin! Where's my bowling pin?" he barks, in search of an... More >>
Praising the Bar Praising the Bar
High marks for the Serbian fare at the Shenandoah Bar and Grill
By Jill Posey-Smith, September 01, 1999
Col. Tex Trailer, whose family has inhabited the same corner of Dutchtown for generations, informs me that, as a boy, his father was often sent... More >>
Greek Goods
An offering of thanks for the Greek Festival's heavenly food
By Jill Posey-Smith, September 01, 1999
If you missed last weekend's Serbian Festival, don't panic; a Balkan good time can still be had at the Greek Festival this Labor Day weekend. St.... More >>
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