Billy G's Italian American Restaurant in Kirkwood

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Its "Farmhouse White" pizza is topped with roasted garlic-herb oil, mozzarella, and wild mushrooms, then finished with prosciutto, shaved parmesan and arugula

Why are these institutes of banality and Buffalo wings so popular? Their obsession with providing something for everyone translates into mammoth and disjointed menus, sometimes with a table of contents, that simultaneously offer sushi and spaghetti while relying on frozen, processed crap to keep up in the kitchen. But the lackluster food does not seem to bother the throngs of patrons who line up at the door, clasping their vibrating buzzers. Is it the décor? Location? The desire for familiarity?

Keep reading: Cheryl Baehr's review of Billy G's in Kirkwood.

Photos by Jennifer Silverberg for the Riverfront Times.

Published on November 19, 2013