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A late afternoon lunch spread at Salume Beddu.
After curing, the ribs are steamed at low temperature for three to four hours and then, when you order it, given a quick charring. The flavor is almost indescribable. An initial hit of olive oil and lemon slices through the browned exterior, then gives way to the complexity of the ras-el-hanout, whose warmth and pungency fills out the pork's natural blend of savor and sweetness. The meat is so tender that, again, if you didn't know, you might assume it had cooked low and slow over smoldering wood. Click here to continue reading Ian Froeb's review of Salume Beddu. Photos by Jennifer Silverberg.