Chez Leon

The second edition of Leon Birnbaum's French restaurant affects a sleek, very dark look that can, at its best, transport diners to a place where their only concern is haute cuisine. Classic French dishes abound, from escargots to foie gras, steak frites to canard a'lorange. The experience is not cheap - several entrées cross the $30 barrier, and two diners, with tip, tax and wine, will easily break $100 - but there is a prix-fixe option: three courses for $40 (plus a supplemental charge for a few dishes).