Bosnian food is hearty food, and Taft Street Restaurant dishes it out in hearty helpings. In its fifth year of operation, this pleasant, no-frills corner eatery in Bevo offers up a cuisine suggestive of Bosnia's geographic position (i.e., both Mediterranean and Eastern European). Begin with the tangy goat cheese fritters or the triangular beef-filled pastries called kulazy. After a tomato-and-feta salad or bowl of spicy fish soup, you've got over a dozen entrées to choose from, including chicken, veal, seafood and pasta (there's a strong proclivity for cream sauces) dishes. One delicious offering, and also a favorite of Bosnian families eating at home, is cevapi: rich, sweet beef sausage the size of your thumb. Owner Sadik Kukic takes a generous handful of these sausages, which he procures from a nearby butcher, grills and serves them between two giant slices of lepana, a Bosnian bread. Sour cream may be added on request. This dish is off the menu, but Kukic says he's always prepared to cook it because so many Bosnian families come in. If you were looking for authenticity, you've found it.
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