Steven and Heidy Song haven't reinvented the chicken wing at O! Wing Plus, the husband-and-wife team's bright, welcoming restaurant in Overland. What they have done is return the fun to a staple snack that has been buffalo-sauced into generic oblivion. The Songs' Korean heritage is the key. Not that the wings convey distinct Korean flavors; you won't find kimchi wings here. Instead, taking a cue from Korean cuisine's modus operandi, O! Wing Plus offers sauces that balance complex flavors with perceptible heat. The "Beast Mode" is the hottest sauce, fearsomely so to all but the bravest chile lovers. "Hot Mama!" is a little tamer and provides a lovely honey note, while "O's Original" softens the chiles with brown sugar and soy sauce. Yes, you can order traditional buffalo wings here, but if you must have them, pair them with one of the trademark sauces -- you can split an order of ten wings between any two sauces -- and you'll come to understand that the exclamation point in the joint's name isn't braggadocio. It's a mission statement.
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