Entering the newly refurbished Busch's Grove is like walking through a wardrobe and into Narnia. In the Grove's case, the two-story colonial looks like a farmhouse from Clayton Road, but as you turn into the parking lot, a $10 million heaven is revealed. Holy moly. It's like they transformed a Buick into a golden chariot. Touch the $15,000 handles (or better yet, let a minion touch them for you), walk into the Grove Bar and prepare to faint: This is classy
. Designed by restaurant architect David Rockwell (who designed Emeril Lagasse's flagship restaurant in New Orleans, among others), the Grove features hallway ceilings lined with birch branches and, in the main dining room, a glorious dangling sculpture by Yoshiyuki Miura, who hung thousands of granite shards from the ceiling. Private rooms are worthy of the Pope, and the bathrooms are too spiffy for bodily fluids. So, uh, make sure you wear your fanciest duds.