For a place that claims to serve "breakfast, lunch and sometimes dinner," you'd be forgiven for thinking that maybe some of the Shack's menu items would be similarly, ah, lax with quality. Not so the fries. In fact, they were the first things we thought about when we heard that the Shack PubGrub was pulling up stakes in midtown and relocating to a Valley Park strip mall. But we needn't have worried. Though some of the fries — there are five varieties to choose from, including a kind of meta french fry that's dressed up like a loaded baked potato — got a makeover from their Saint Louis University days, they remain largely, blessedly, the same. And decked though they are, these hand-cut fries remind diners that, oh yeah, there are two parts to the fry: the crispy outside and the pillowy inner stuff. And that crunch is even more impressive given how generously they're topped with ingredients as varied as pork belly, chorizo and creamed spinach. In our book, the "Hot and Spicy" fries, topped with hot sauce, bacon, avocado ranch and green onion — piquant, tangy and savory all at once — are the best of the bunch.
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