Great pizza begins with the essentials: crust, sauce, cheese. PW Pizza, a new pizzeria from Paul and Wendy Hamilton, the couple behind Eleven Eleven Mississippi and Vin de Set, succeeds on all three counts. Especially the crust: thin, but with a distinct chew and a lovely, almost buttery sweetness. The sauce is classic: tomato, its natural sweetness balanced by oregano and a hint of chile heat. The type of cheese varies from pie to pie, but the kitchen applies it in exactly the right amount to complement, not smother, the toppings. Pizzas range from classics (pepperoni, sausage, margherita) to the Hamiltons' creations -- the "Popeye & Olive Oil," Wendy's spinach, roasted red pepper and goat cheese pizza, is lovely -- to those devised by executive chef Randall Eickmeyer, such as the "Pulled Piggy" (pulled pork, barbecue sauce and slaw). Your personal preferences will guide your decision, but whatever you select, you can choose with confidence.
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