Tani Sushi Bistro is the rare sushi restaurant that will appeal to fans of both old-school sushi and contemporary "Americanized" rolls — you know: the flashier, the better. And you don't get much flashier than Tani's "Oh My God" roll, a combination of shrimp tempura, shrimp, crab and avocado that's set on fire at your table, though the colorful "Samba" roll, made with tuna, yellowtail, cucumber, avocado, green onion, cilantro and a serious one-two punch of jalapeño and chile sauce gives "God" a run for its money. Those are flashy, yes, and also delicious. If you look past the pyrotechnics, you'll find exquisite nigiri sushi, the rice expertly seasoned and the perfect temperature. The fish is impeccably fresh, whether you splurge on fatty otoro (tuna belly) or keep the tab down with saba (mackerel), which though humble is both delicious and, for the most part, sustainably fished. Whether you love the old or the new — or both — consider ordering one of the rolls named after a St. Louis athlete (Chris Carpenter, Steven Jackson, David Backes). When you do, a portion of the price goes to a charity of the athletes' choice.
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