You might easily overlook Chi Sushi, tucked as it is into a stretch of larger restaurants toward the south end of the Central West End. That would be a mistake. This sleek restaurant serves up terrific sushi, whether you prefer traditional nigiri or elaborate modern rolls. The sushi chefs prepare exquisite nigiri, the fish draped over perfectly seasoned rice, without annoying fake wasabi between the two. Purists might scoff at such over-the-top rolls as the "Chi" (made with shrimp, salmon, eel, avocado and kiwi, as well as masago, scallion and eel sauce), but these show surprising artistry in their balance of textures and flavor — and surprising grace notes, like that kiwi. Though the modern design (not to mention the various bastardized martinis on the drink menu) evoke the fashion-forward-to-a-fault tendencies to which some CWE establishments fall prey, in many ways Chi feels like an oasis amid the bustle. To put it another way: Once you discover the restaurant for yourself, you might not mind others overlooking it.
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