Gelato di Riso-Warson Woods

CLOSED Though gelato isn't made with cream (either whole milk or water is used), it tastes sweeter, denser and lusher than the ice cream Americans are accustomed to, because less air is churned into the stuff. And nobody in St. Louis does gelato better than Suzy Reis. For example, she offers two different versions of cherry gelato -- one cream-based, the other more like a sorbet -- and sources two different kinds of cherries (from Michigan and from Door County, Wisconsin) with which to make 'em. (For an added flavor jolt, consider popping an extra 50 cents for a shot of balsamic syrup on your gelato.)