Lil’ Mickey’s Memphis Barbeque offers few frills in its small St. Peters space (a repurposed Taco Bell). But no frills are necessary: The proof is in the ’cue, dry-rubbed and smoked over hickory wood. The lineup’s what you’d expect — pork shoulder and ribs, beef brisket, chicken, turkey breast. The ribs and pulled pork are excellent, tender, with a pure flavor of pig and smoke. But be sure to try the chopped beef brisket and the chicken, both tenderer, not to mention tastier, than smoking often renders them. The restaurant’s signature sauce is topnotch: molasses-sweet with a piquant vinegar note and a slowly building heat.